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On the scent: Five brands to look out for this June

Le Labo FragrancesJapanKyoto’s historic woodenmachiyatownhouses are not always treated with the respect they deserve. But this hasn’t been the case for a 150-year-old, family-owned former saké brewery by the Kamo river, which has been turned into a new home for New York-based fragrance brand Le Labo Fragrances.The atmospheric old building has been renovated with a light touch: door frames and walls have been left in a comfortably worn state and nothing feels overly restored. “It was about finding the right balance between preserving the past and bringing in new life,” says Deborah Royer, Le Labo Fragrances’s president and chief creative officer. The courtyard garden has been revived, while the oldkurastorehouse at the back has been turned into a small coffee stand. A tatami-mat room upstairs hosted a Kyoto calligrapher for the opening and will be used to welcome other craftsmen in the future. “We always try to connect with local artisans,” adds Royer, who tends to opt out of releasing traditional ad campaigns. “We don’t overdo the explanations; we try to [focus] everything around the fragrances.”Royer, who grew up on a farm in France, has long had a soft spot for Japan and itswabi sabiaesthetic. “We only use high-quality ingredients and work with small businesses and family-owned farms.” Ingredients come from all over the world, including cardamom from Guatemala, roses from Grasse, bergamot from Italy and sandalwood from a farm in Australia. “There are many similar products in the world, so if we’re going to offer something, it has to be different and resonate with us,” adds Royer, who can spend more than three years developing a fragrance.Le Labo Fragrances was bought by Estée Lauder in 2014 but Royer is confident that she can retain the brand’s identity. “I feel good about respecting the original intention and focusing on our craft.”lelabofragrances.comSantoniItalyItalian footwear and accessories label Santoni is going full steam ahead with its expansion plans. After setting up shop in London’s Harrods in 2023, executive president Giuseppe Santoni is now plotting openings in Paris, Zürich and Dallas later this year. “We want to better understand our customers’ needs and offer them the best service available,” says Santoni. “That’s part of the luxury experience. Having this physical touchpoint is the best way to get closer to your consumer.”The brand is best known for its smart leather loafers, which are crafted in its own manufacturing facility in Italy’s Marche region. The shoes stand out for their rounded-toe silhouettes, buckle embellishments and nature-inspired colour palettes, and have been enjoying a resurgence as fashion returns to formality. “The younger generation seem to be drawn to them,” adds Santoni. “Trainers are part of everyday life but we can offer more formal shoes that are equally as comfortable by blending craft with innovation.”Santoni has also been working on expanding its men’s offering, as well as bolstering its women’s and leather-goods ranges. These unisex leather slides, featuring double-buckle straps, make for an elegant off-duty staple.santonishoes.comDior Men’sFranceAccessories have always been a focus for Dior, one of the largest businesses in the LVMH portfolio, with menswear artistic director Kim Jones creating hits including smart shoulder bags for work and modern-day iterations of the Saddle bag. The new Dior Gravity capsule extends to travel-friendly styles and introduces a new type of grained leather, featuring the house’s signature Oblique motif. The material has been used across backpacks, messenger bags and leather goods in a palette of blacks, beiges and khakis. We have our eye on the weekender tote – ideal for short getaways.dior.comAvartLuganoAlma Veragouth had been dreaming of opening a menswear shop for some time. She had been running Avart, her Lugano-based womenswear boutique for more than a decade when the opportunity to expand came up. It was too good to ignore. “It was difficult to get the space; there were seven other candidates,” says Veragouth. But she prevailed and Avart’s new menswear shop opened its doors earlier this year after six months of renovation work.It is housed in an elegant building with huge, curved windows and continues Veragouth’s work of bringing niche, high-end brands to the Italian-speaking Swiss city. Veragouth, who worked in fashion in her native Kazakhstan before moving to Switzerland, picked labels such as Nigel Cabourn, RRL, Studio Nicholson and Salvatore Piccolo for the new boutique. She recently returned from a trip to Japan – part-holiday, part-research mission – and spoke of her deep affinity for Japanese and American brands, pointing to her selection of favourites, including Orslow and Engineered Garments.She is equally fond of refined interiors and hired renowned designer Bruno Keller to work on the shop’s refit. Keller created a warm space, which includes a mezzanine with wooden accents and recessed neon lighting from Italy’s Viabizzuno. Look out for the area featuring shoes, bags and accessories, and the cosy corner where you can kick back on an Eames lounger with a magazine or book from the shop’s selection. “The idea is to create a multicultural, intellectual space,” says Veragouth.avart-shop.comHermèsFranceFrench luxury house Hermès is delving deeper into the world of beauty, with a growing perfume-and-cosmetics line. It has quickly gained the approval of connoisseurs thanks to its best-in-class formulas, playful colour palettes and pristine packaging. The label recently released Herbes Vives, the third instalment in its H24 perfume line. The scent, created by Swiss perfumer Christine Nagel, evokes the fresh, earthy aromas of the natural world following heavy rainfall. The fragrance blends notes of sorrel, hemp and parsley with pear granita and fresh mint. The perfume’s light-green and refillable glass bottle is also striking.hermes.com

Alessandro Sartori’s vision for a timeless, trend-free Zegna

“Last week I was dressing a doctor friend for a special night,” says Alessandro Sartori, Zegna’s artistic director, sitting on a sofa in the Italian fashion house’s Milan showroom. “He needed something a little different so we went with a deep-blue tux and an extra-large lapel.” As Sartori speaks, his eyes widen with excitement. “I really enjoy dressing people – getting the perfect fit, choosing the most amazing fabrics. If I wasn’t doing what I do, I would have certainly been a tailor.”Before taking on his current role in 2016, the Biella-born designer held prominent positions at Z Zegna, the label’s now-defunct sub-brand, and Berluti. Yet Sartori, who grew up seeing his mother work as a tailor and his father design textile machinery, never forgot the joy of dressing individual customers. As far as he’s concerned, being a fashion designer is a service job. “As with hairdressers and make-up artists, designers’ work touches the human body so we need to be respectful and ensure that people feel like themselves,” he says. “We are not dressing them for our own pleasure.”Artistic director Alessandro SartoriHis grounded approach has helped him to steer Zegna through one of the most successful rebrands in luxury menswear – and entice customers to keep shopping, even as sales have slowed down across the sector. In 2024 it was the only house in the Ermenegildo Zegna Group (which also owns brands such as  Thom Browne and Tom Ford Fashion) that grew, generating €810.6m in sales in the first three quarters.Sartori works closely with ceo Ermene­gildo Zegna, who was named after his grandfather, the company’s founder. On their watch, the brand’s name was shortened from Ermenegildo Zegna to Zegna; they also unveiled a new logo and a fresh design direction. “We wanted to recreate the Zegna silhouette,” says Sartori. “In the past the brand was recognised for quality and beautiful tailoring but we would design our collections based on seasonal [themes] and trends. Now we want to own a specific tailored look, to define the style of tomorrow. That’s why we started launching new designs that are easy to wear, uncomplicated and work across the seasons. It’s more utilitarian but executed with made-to-measure precision and luxurious fabrics.”Oasi ZegnaBy way of illustration, Sartori points to some of Zegna’s new designs, from cashmere overshirts to loosely tailored blazers and the Il Conte chore jackets, with their raised collars and leather-trimmed pockets. “There’s classic tailoring, which many heritage brands execute at incredibly high standards, and then there’s experimental tailoring – eccentric lapels, pieces with too many buttons and so forth – which is usually for the pleasure of the designer,” he says. “But there’s a beautiful middle ground where you can express a fashion-forward point of view while also remembering that the garments that you’re designing need to be worn by real people. I’m always returning to the idea of respecting the customer.”A sense of lightness and fluidity has come to define Sartori’s designs: think lapel-free cashmere blazers that are so comfortable that you’ll want to wear them all day but are smart enough for dinner; feather-light loafers that are appropriately named Secondskin; or cashmere polo shirts that make for the perfect layering pieces. A new outdoors-wear collection also caters to customers’ off-duty needs, with a wide range of ski and technical wear.“Zegna performs so well for us,” says Sophie Jordan, the menswear buying director of e-commerce platform Mytheresa, which recently celebrated the launch of the new outdoors-wear collection with an event in Milan and Piedmont, home to the company’s factory and natural park, the Oasi Zegna. “There’s value and quality in every piece that it produces. With Sartori’s attention to detail and creative direction, the brand will continue to evolve and lead the menswear space.”Factory entranceIt helps that Sartori is his own customer. “I love wearing the same jacket from morning to evening so I’ve been focusing on the idea of multifunctional pieces,” he says. Men across the globe relate to his need for elegant yet pragmatic designs, including famous faces such as Danish actor Mads Mikkelsen (who is now a brand ambassador), film-maker Adjani Salmon and dancer Paolo Busti. “I want to represent our entire community, which ranges from men aged 20 to octogenarians.”The idea of “an encounter of generations” was also on Sartori’s mind when he was designing Zegna’s latest collection, which the brand presented during Milan Fashion Week Menswear in January. Models walked around a vast runway that was covered in green grass, wearing tweed coats, high-waisted trousers and cardigans crafted with Vellus Aureum – an award-winning wool that set a world record in 2023 with a fineness of 9.4 microns. Sartori tells Monocle that all of these items were designed to be collected, kept for decades and combined with staples from previous seasons. He compares his work to furniture and, like a true Milanese, makes frequent trips to the city’s Nilufar design gallery for inspiration.The artistic director is equally fond of thinking of himself as a chef. “I work in the best kitchen, using the best ingredients,” he says with a big smile, referring to Zegna’s wool mill in Piedmont, which the founder established in 1910. It remains the backbone of the business today. The highest-quality merino wool is transported there from Zegna-owned or partner farms in Australia and washed using the region’s purified water. It is then combed to ensure that the fibres are parallel to each other and woven on machines, before undergoing rigorous quality checks. Specially trained artisans inspect every centimetre of the fabric by hand and mark even the smallest of defects, moving swiftly from one end of their station to the other as if they were choreographed.Inspecting fabricsFinishing touches“We love the idea of having every component of a garment made in-house,” says Sartori, who frequently drives to Piedmont to work with the factory team and gather new ideas. “The concept of ‘sheep to shop’ is real for us.” Above the factory is the founder’s office and vast archives filled with fabric swatch books dating as far back as the 1930s, when the first Ermenegildo Zegna travelled to the US to sell the woollen and worsted fabrics that he was already known for. Spinning roomCorner in the office of founder Ermenegildo Zegna’sAt the nearby Villa Zegna, members of the family sometimes still gather for celebratory meals – usually a risotto, followed by a roast and baked cakes from the recipe book of the founder’s wife, Nina. Meals are then followed by rides up to the mountain to ski or enjoy the panoramic views from the Monte Marca Hut, which was designed by architect Ernesto Giuliano Armani. It was the founder who planted the first tree on the then-barren mountain in 1929, hoping to transform the region for generations to come. He also built roads, a hospital, a pool and a recreation centre for residents in the area in the belief that you can only produce high-quality clothing if its makers have fulfilling lives. It’s an inspiring entrepreneurial story that remains relevant a century later as luxury brands try to clean up their supply chains and build communities. It also offers Sartori and the new generation of Zegnas who are now in charge solid foundations from which to execute their new strategy.“If the ingredients are good, the food will be delicious, even if the recipe is simple,” says Sartori, returning to his culinary theme. Zegna’s recipe for success is refreshingly straightforward: focusing on wardrobe staples and eschewing trends, putting the customer first and investing in intimate retail experiences. The company’s trusted retail partners include Munich-based Mytheresa, which shares its premium, customer-centric approach, flying top clients to Italy to experience family-style lunches at Villa Zegna and tour the company’s wool mills.Emphasising the human side of the business, even as it scales globally, has proven just as important. Customer events, such as those held with Mytheresa, frequently result in friendships being formed, personal stories being exchanged and plenty of cannoli being passed around. Campaign shoots also often end with Sartori and Mikkelsen playing cards and singing karaoke into the wee small hours. “We are not here to teach anyone,” says Sartori. “We just want to be true to ourselves.” As luxury goes mainstream, being yourself and celebrating your humanity might be the most revolutionary approach that a designer can take. For Sartori and Zegna, it’s paying off.

Interview: Natira Boonsri, Central Group’s CEO, on the Thai retail giant’s future

The future of the department store has been repeatedly questioned over the past decade as luxury brands invest in their own shops and consumer behaviour evolves. But while relationships between brands and department stores might be forever changed – brands are seeking more control and now operate their own concessions within these institutions – department stores will continue to play a critical role in the luxury ecosystem.Since 2011, Central Department Store Group, which is based in Thailand, has been buying up the best department stores across Europe, from Rinascente in Italy and Illum in Denmark to Selfridges in the UK. While these blockbuster deals have been making international headlines, the retail giant with a magic touch for turning around legacy retailers has also been quietly transforming its own crown jewel, Bangkok’s Central Chidlom. After an extensive renovation led by British architect John Pawson – the largest since it opened in 1973 – the store is due to reopen in December 2024. It will operate mostly on a concession model while acting as a social gathering space, and will focus on servicing the vip customer’s every need. Central Chidlom is now also home to 60 restaurants and cafés.Natira Boonsri, the ceo of Central Department Store Group and a member of the mighty Chirathivat family that controls Central Group, has spent almost her entire career in department stores. She is currently overseeing 76 locations and has big ambitions for Chidlom, reflecting Thailand’s ever-increasing strength as a luxury market. Here, she tells monocle what’s new and explains how the flow of expertise and information between the group’s Asian and European businesses is positioning Central Group’s retail arm as a global market leader.How does Chidlom in Bangkok compare to the Central Group’s department stores in Europe?When we discuss our group’s luxury portfolio, we say that Rinascente is the store of Milan and Selfridges is the store of London. We want Chidlom to be the store of Bangkok. Each one has a different positioning but we want them all to cater to premium customers and be social gathering places.How has your overseas business influenced the strategy behind the Chidlom renovation?Some of the businesses are very good at activating the store – what we call retail as media. Rinascente often changes the shop’s façade and lets brands take over the inside to advertise or communicate to customers. We want to do that at Central Chidlom. We have also doubled the space of the Chidlom beauty floor. Selfridges has a very strong beauty offering and it always has new-to-market exclusive launches to create excitement for customers.How important are VIP customers?They are instrumental to Chidlom’s success. We have about 7,000 top customers and on average they come almost twice a month and spend 600,000 baht [€16,000] a year, which is very high. That’s why I created the Cenfinity loyalty programme last year. We want to step up a few notches and go beyond expectations. In the past we didn’t have all of the luxury brands that these customers were looking for, so they would have to go elsewhere.What kind of conversations did you need to have with the luxury brands to convince them to partner with you?During the coronavirus pandemic we saw a huge spike in luxury consumption in Thailand and we couldn’t ignore it. We shared our vision and renovation project with the luxury brands and they were interested. Most of the fashion brands on the luxury floor are new to Chidlom, including Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada. Usually they are in shopping malls where they have large boutiques. This is the first time that they have joined a department store in Thailand.How do you see the overall department-store concept faring in the future?This year we will have medium, single-digit growth, which is considered quite good. Our recently renovated stores are outperforming the others by a long way. When we renovate, we introduce new programmes and lifestyle elements that encourage customers to visit, have a coffee and stay longer. We renew the brand line-up and introduce new ones to the market. We also see an uplift in sales when we redesign the floor layout and make our stores easier to navigate. The department-store model will continue to grow as long as it adapts to the changes in customer behaviour.How do you see technology affecting the customer experience?Social commerce has become very successful during the pandemic. Our sales associates would contact our customers using the Line messaging app and send them pictures and videos of new products that they could buy. This remains popular and we want to push it even more – alongside live commerce, where China is very strong. It’s still the start of this journey and we will be slowly growing the digital part of the business.Will bricks-and-mortar shopping stay at the core of the business?It’s very important and it will always be there. Customers of every nationality long to have a community hub where they can mingle and hang out with friends.Are you optimistic for 2025?The global economy is volatile but Thailand’s gdp is forecast to grow about 3.5 per cent next year. We think we will continue to achieve our targets and see a big growth opportunity in international shoppers. Tourist spending in our stores has already exceeded pre-pandemic levels, even though the number of visitors to Thailand is still below the 40 million who came before the pandemic.How else do you foresee the Thai retail landscape changing?There will be about 500,000 square metres of new retail space in Bangkok by 2026 or 2027. Competition is intensifying but that’s good. The more there is, the more everyone wants to transform themselves. That’s better for customers and ultimately it makes Thailand stronger because we’ll be able to attract more tourists.

A bustling Japanese market that offers a luxury shopping experience

May 2024InventoryA monthly round-up of all you needThat food in Japan is outstanding is hardly news but what really separates the average meal in Tokyo from other big cities is often the quality of the ingredients. From grapes wrapped in muslin on the vine to freshly caught fish handled with the gentlest touch, Japanese producers are on another level. And what if the humble shopper wanted to get their hands on such produce? One new food market in Tokyo is offering just that and more under one roof. This is no regular supermarket – and is priced accordingly – but it’s a fascinating stop for anyone wanting to get to the heart of why the best Japanese food is so good. Even the sushi counter here, Sushi Saito, is a Michelin-starred operation.Choose your own ‘dashi’ at Okume ShotenGet your daily catch from the best fish wholesalersThe Azabudai Hills Market – part of Mori Building’s giant new development – covers 4,000 sq m and 34 speciality shops. “We have had lots of experience with restaurant tenants but we had never done food retail,” says Masanori Tsukamoto, who developed the market with his colleague Takashi Ohgaki. “When we thought about how to do really good food retail, it was all about high-quality products,” says Tsukamoto. “We realised that great restaurants had access to the best produce so we talked to the ones we worked with about where they were getting their produce from. Sushi restaurant Saito told us that it was getting its fish from [seafood wholesaler] Yamayuki. We felt that it would be innovative if businesses that were only doing B2B became available B2C.”Serving food with finesseTraditional welcome at Maehara grilled-eel shop“We wanted to showcase the richness of Japanese food culture, so we selected retailers of the highest quality for each category,” Ohgaki tells Monocle. “And to show the variety of Japanese cuisine, not just sushi and tempura but also home cooking, from potato salad tokaraage.” Hiyama butchers’ shop has been based in Ningyocho – a quaint Tokyo neighbourhood – for more than 100 years. The Hiyama buyers favour Yonezawa wagyu from Yamagata, marbled with just the right amount of fat; the thinnest slices need only be licked by a flame and they’re good to go. Tsukiji Toritoh is another traditional wholesaler founded in 1907 on the fringes of Tsukuiji fish market; this is where the bestyakitorirestaurants are sourcing their birds – and now you can too.For fish, the team has netted top-drawer fishmongers Nezu Matsumoto and Yamayuki, which supplies many of the best restaurants in Tokyo. “I’ve been selling fish for 40 years but once I hit 60, I wanted to explore food education,” says Yukitaka Yamaguchi,  owner of Yamayuki. “It’s difficult to find an [marine] environment like Japan anywhere else. I want to show what’s out there. I don’t think farming is bad but I want people to know the natural taste of real, wild fish.” By working face to face with customers, Yamaguchi can also give advice. “We get to say, ‘It’s delicious if you eat it this way’”, he adds. One of the staff is skilfully cutting a 164kg tuna caught in Shimoda.For fresh fruit and vegetables, the market has called on Kyoto Yaoichi, a greengrocer, to handle only the best and most in season of produce: bamboo shoots (still covered in soil), the juiciest Japanese strawberries and perfectly ripemikancitrus. There are also unfurled ferns, fresh wasabi and edible flowers. This is the place for those ¥50,000 (€300) melons and presentation boxes of uniform Japanese cherries but they also have everyday vegetables – just better versions. Look at the sad, out-of-season produce in the typical urban supermarket and weep.Arranging vegetables at Kyoto YaoichiPremium fish lunchboxes There are 34 restaurants and food countersNezu Matsumoto is renowned for its fish and chirashi sushiBlend your own beans at Ogawa Coffee LaboratoryMeidi-Ya supermarketCitrus at Kyoto YaoichiSlicing tuna at YamayukiThe bread shop, Comme’N Tokyo, whose popular mother shop is in Okusawa in Tokyo, is excellent, though you might never find out. So long are the queues that only the most dedicated will be going home with one of its baguettes or pastel-coloured meringues. The young baker in charge, Shuichi Osawa, was the first Japanese to take home top prize at international bread competition Mondial du Pain. Osawa knows his audience and there are almost 100 varieties on offer. Just don’t be in a hurry.For pickles, customers will head to Nakaya, which, like so many classic food shops, originated on the outer edges of Tsukiji fish market. Nakaya is based in rural Ibaraki and specialises in vegetables pickled in rice bran. Free from additives, these pickles bear no relation to the wincingly sharp onions in a jar but allow the taste of the vegetable to shine through. Fordashistock – made frombonitoand the basis of so much Japanese cooking – the amateur chef can go to Okume Shoten, which has been selling seafood since 1871. Customers can select their owndashi. For miso, look no further than Tokyo favourite Sano.Expert counter service at Nezu Matsumoto Sealing the dealVarious cuts of fishVariety and vitality in actionNeighbourhood favourites include Hiyama butchers Baskets at the ready“The age group of our customers runs from seniors to young children,” says Ohgaki. “We have fish tanks that little kids can see, as well as a bakery dedicated for children [Comme’N Kids], so it’s a fun place for them as well.” From this month the Azabudai Hills Market Lab will host events and workshops that offer opportunities to eat the produce at pop-up sushi counters and sit-down lunch bars. Every aspect of a meal is available here, with ingredients so superb, that even the least adept cook might make the meal of a lifetime.azabudai-hills.comCase study:RiceRice is a Japanese preoccupation that potato-loving Western cultures can never quite get t o grips with. At Azabudai Hills, customers can buy from celebrated century-old Tokyo rice shop Sumidaya Shoten, which is now run by Shinichi Katayama. The rice is top quality, of course, but Katayama is also keen to teach people how to prepare it properly. “No matter how good the rice is, if it is cooked incorrectly, it will not be delicious.”Case study:WineWine is given its own space on an upper floor and run by Yamajin, a century-old wine merchant from Utsunomiya, led by Kenichi Ohashi, the only person in Japan to hold the Master of Wine title. It sells big French classics, amphora-aged wines from Georgia and a strong saké selection, and has a counter for trying the odd glass or two. For coffee lovers, emerge from the entrance (admiring the architecture by Thomas Heatherwick and architect Ai Yoshida of Japan’s Suppose Design) and pick up beans from Kyoto roasters Ogawa Coffee Laboratory. Dozens of varieties are lined up like fragrances and staff will blend according to taste.

Athens’ creative renaissance: Makers, designers and shopkeepers to know

In Athens, the sun shines brightly, the music is extra loud and crowds overflow from cafés and restaurants. This commitment to savouring life’s simple pleasures – good food, good company, good weather – has defined Athenians’ outlook. And today, it seems that the world is taking note and looking to join in on the fun.This would explain why hotels such as the Grand Bretagne in the centre, the newly opened One&Only resort in the south and many new boutique concepts are booked year round. Athens is becoming a real destination and not just a mere summer stopover for those visiting Paros or Spetses. It has also become the chosen home for an ever-growing group of entrepreneurs and creatives who move here for the sunshine, the food and the cost of living. A renewed sense of optimism is in the air too: the streets are cleaner and busier than before, people smile at strangers more and entire neighbourhoods have been transformed by the opening of new restaurants, bakeries, shops and cultural spaces.Dimitra Kolotoura, co-founder of Zeus + DioneThe Zeus + Dione boutique in AthensIt’s no surprise that the hospitality sector was the first to take off, given the Greeks’ affinity for hosting. But locals have been experimenting beyond food and drink by applying their skills to retail by launching their own fashion brands and setting out to revive craft and manufacturing traditions that have been dormant since the 1980s. This means that when you walk around the Greek capital, whether along the cobbled streets of Plaka or in busy Syntagma Square, you’ll find more than cheap souvenirs and mass-produced fashion. Instead, there is a variety of multi-brand boutiques, concept shops and brand flagships where the owners are likely to greet you in person, share stories behind their designs and tell you about the provenance of their products – the majority of which are proudly “Made in Greece”.“We’re finally in the right place at the right time,” says Dimitra Kolotoura, co-founder of Zeus + Dione, a luxury ready-to-wear and accessories label. “The economic crisis of the 2010s urged people to start thinking outside the box. In our case, we wanted to do something creative for our country during that difficult time,” says Kolotoura, who co-founded the label with Mareva Grabowski 11 years ago.Zeus + Dione is a good example of what a modern Greek luxury label looks like, translating classic Greek design and symbolism into modern clothing, supporting artisanal manufacturers across the country and making its presence strongly felt in the city centre. “Within a half-mile radius, you’ll find us in so many different locations, from the GB Corner Shop inside the Grand Bretagne hotel to the Attica department store and our own flagship,” she says. “International customers come to Zeus + Dione to buy something that represents Greece.” It’s A Shirt colourful spring collectionThe brand’s own shop is a minimal, compact space on Voukourestiou Street, a prime spot where the historic Athenée café, Pallas theatre and boutiques for the likes of Rolex and Eres are also located. Kolotoura and her team are always on hand to talk customers through the stories of cultural heritage underpinning every choice of fabric: silk produced in the town of Soufli, embroidery from Argos or shearling from Kastoria, nodding to the area’s community of shepherds. “Greeks have distanced themselves from manufacturing but as new opportunities come up, people will want to get involved again,” says Kolotoura. “If you commit to creating high-quality products, recognition will come, people will start to feel proud and they’ll change their preconceptions around Greek-made products. Greeks didn’t want to hear about local labels in the past but I think that we’ve helped change that mentality.” There are signs of this shift across the city centre, where homegrown labels now sit proudly next to shops by established international houses. A stone’s throw from Zeus + Dione, and next to Chanel’s Athens boutique, is the flagship of handbag label Callista, which is owned by Celia Sigalou and Eleni Konstantinidou. “The idea was to create quality leather products with artisanal details so we built our entire team around that [concept],” says Sigalou in reference to the Callista atelier where women make hand-embroidered straps and handles that go on the label’s minimal tote bags. “There was a danger at one point of associating Greek design with folklore. We want to apply traditional craft to modern silhouettes.”On the other side of the street, you’ll find a sun-filled shop designed to resemble a glamorous 1970s hotel, complete with mesh chairs (reminiscent of the ones found in Athens’ popular outdoor cinemas), colourful tapestries and aquamarine tiles. This is the home of Ancient Greek Sandals, another local label that has achieved international recognition and established itself among the new generation of Athens’ luxury that Athenian brands are achieving, with its footwear collection (beyond the signature summer sandals, you’ll find shearling slippers, ballet flats and more) and curation of other international labels, from Italian sock label Maria La Rosa to Ukrainian outerwear specialist Ienki Ienki. “We have this home and we want to use it to bring friends of the brand together,” says co-founder Christina Martini.One of Christina Christodoulou’s classic designsChristina Christodoulou, It’s A Shirt founderThere is even more to discover beyond bustling Syntagma Square. Heading uphill to the heart of Kolonaki, an area that was always populated with high-end boutiques, you’ll find renovated brand flagships, menswear specialists and heritage jewellers scattered amid its narrow streets. The absence of a main shopping thoroughfare makes venturing into Kolonaki a little more adventurous than usual; there is no loud signage so you have to seek out each destination and brave some steep slopes along the way.Christakis, the area’s historic tailor, is a great place to start. Having operated in the same spot since 1947, the shop is an Athens institution. It’s now run by brothers Christos and Antonis Nyflis, the owner’s grandsons, remains a go-to for lightweight shirting, made-to-measure suiting and pyjamas. The in-house tailor is often found cutting patterns at the back of the shop and the Nyflis’s mother manning the till while they meet clients for one-to-one appointments. “There’s a lot of new business travellers from Europe and the US who have become loyal clients because we offer competitive prices and shorter waiting times,” says Christos. “You can also get a feel of old Athens here. We stick to the original design of the shop so that someone can come in and be reminded of what it is like to visit a traditional shirtmaker.” Indeed, the dark-wood cabinets, stacks of archival sketches and sounds of fabric being cut and steamed transport shoppers back in time. Across the street, multi-brand boutique The Aesthet brings together a number of Greek womenswear brands under one roof, from Zeus + Dione to summer specialist Ancient Kallos and jewellers Lito and Ileana Makri. “We were the first boutique to bring together local designers in about 2013,” says founder Alexandra Zakka. “Before that we were governed by this xenocentrism and everything was imported.” Zakka, an ambitious entrepreneur, has gone on to open a second shop on the island of Mykonos and plans another in the forthcoming Ellinikon malls in Athens. “There’s ongoing demand from both tourists and locals,” she says. “Given its position, Athens is a great weekend destination and can really deliver when it comes to food, nightlife, history and now shopping. We are calling it the ‘Greek-end’.” The Kolonaki neighbourhood is also a treasure trove for jewellery lovers, filled with boutiques and showrooms of some of the city’s most renowned jewellers. Ileana Makri is the leader of the pack, known for her namesake line, which is particularly popular with US department stores. Her concept shop, near Kolonaki Square, brings together her own collections with some of the best – and hardest-to-source – names in fashion. You’ll find cabinets of Ileana Makri rings featuring the popular evil eye motif next to pieces by Bibi van der Velden, Sophie Bille Brahe and Marie Lichtenberg; accessories by The Row (elusive founders Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen are fans of Makri’s work) as well as clothes by La Double J. “Nothing is seasonal,” says Myrto Anastassopoulou, Makri’s daughter who works on the shop’s curation. “We don’t see competition – we just want to reflect how people dress and you never just wear one brand. The mix of brands and price points also means that people feel more comfortable to walk in.”Jeweller Nikos KoulisJewellery by Nikos KoulisNikos Koulis has also built an international jewellery business out of Athens with partners in the US, Europe and the Middle East who appreciate his purist design ethos. He is now building a new Kolonaki boutique to create more space for meeting his customers and designing bespoke pieces for them. “A big part of what we do revolves around unique stones,” says Koulis as he opens the safe behind his desk to show off two dazzling, uncut emeralds sourced for this type of commission. “I build a narrative around the stone.” The pieces are produced in a workshop where a multi-generational team of artisans works together. “It’s a family-style office and the ages of our staff range from 25 to 75, with everyone offering their own perspectives and wisdom.” Fashion discoveries aren’t reserved for the hilly roads of Kolonaki. The older parts of Athens, known as Plaka and Monastiraki, where the streets are narrow and lined with cobblestones, are becoming destinations in their own right. If you’re heading to the Acropolis today, you won’t just find cheap souvenir shops along the way. Though there are still plenty of those around, a corner of Plaka is now also home to Mouki Mou boutique’s new Athens outpost where you can pick up glamorous evening wear by Paris-based Maison Rabih Kayrouz, classic linen tailoring by Apuntob and handcrafted homeware. If you feel like a break, the shop’s terrace also happens to have one of the best views of the city.Clothes featuring traditional Greek block printingA quick stroll around the surrounding area reveals the wave of change taking place in an area that was previously the preserve of tourist traps. After shopping at Mouki Mou, you can also stop at Wine is Fine, one of the many new wine bars and try modern Greek cuisine at Linou Soumpasis&Sia, a favourite of Mouki Mou owner Maria Lemos. Olgiana MelissinosMelissinos’s handmade sandalsThe area is also home to historic, family-run shops that are finally becoming recognised for their meticulously crafted products. Olgianna Melissinos Sandals is one such spot. Discreetly located in a Monastiraki arcade between antique shops and cafés, it offers some of the best made-to-measure leather sandals in town, crafted by owner Olgianna Melissinos, who continues her father’s craft. “I was scared of living up to his name; he was such a character and had a reputation as a sandalmaker but also a poet,” says Melissinos, who now spends her days cycling between her shop and her workshop, where all sandal orders are fulfilled by her and her husband. She is not afraid to experiment with colour and different types of leather, which means that her shop has become the worst-kept secret among discerning travellers who appreciate handmade pieces and classic designs. “We want to highlight that sandals are a sophisticated shoe choice for the summer,” she says. “At the end of the day, sandalmakers in ancient Greece were also politicians,” says Melissinos, who is always on hand to take customers’ measurements and offer personalised recommendations. “The concept of handmade can be quite elitist but I want to make sure that it is as accessible as possible.”The energy of Athens can be felt throughout the city but nowhere is it more evident than Exarchia, the city’s anarchist quarter, which has now turned into a vibrant, creative hub filled with independent boutiques run by young entrepreneurs, vinyl shops, artists’ studios and bookshops. “There was a time when you weren’t able to walk here at night or leave your car without the windows getting smashed,” says Harilaos Kourtinos Pallas, who has just opened concept shop Aphilo Athens in the area, with visual artist Antigone MacLellan. “When I lived here as a student there was something to discover in every corner but all of a sudden everything was deserted and crime went up in the 2010s. It’s great to see people walking around freely again and tourists exploring the area.”Alexandra MacLellan and Harilaos Kourtinos Pallas, co-founders of Aphilo AthensThe team at historic tailor ChristakisAphilo Athens brings together the founders’ creative circle (jewellers working with upcycled materials, designers experimenting with natural dyeing and ceramicists) as well as their own work, which ranges from jewellery to furniture and handcrafted fashion. “This was missing in Athens, where these concepts are usually limited to art galleries,” says Pallas, who custom-made all the furniture in the two-storey shop. “We want to show the skills being revived by young people in Athens.” He is leading by example by introducing his own label, Kyr Lakis, in the shop, created as an homage to his grandfather, a craftsman specialising in traditional Greek block printing. “My mum taught me the craft young,” says Pallas, who now prints his grandfather’s drawings, carved on wooden stamps, cotton shirts, silk scarves and tote bags. “We’re the only family with this heritage and it would have been lost otherwise,” “I want to grow this into a fully fledged lifestyle brand.”There’s a unanimous urge here to revive traditional Greek craft and a palpable sense of national pride. “We’re seeing this in the design world too,” says Pallas. “People used to throw away mosaics and traditional furniture. They craved that modern, clean look because in the 1990s they couldn’t travel much and felt a bit trapped. Now that the world has opened up, we are able to appreciate our own culture more.”Pallas’s thoughts are echoed by Christina Christodoulou, founder of shirting brand It’s A Shirt, whose studio-cum-shop is a street away from Aphilo. Her brand is equally intertwined with family heritage; she grew up with a tailor father who now cuts and sews every shirt that is produced by her label. “Up until the late 1980s, my father ran a small production company in Athens and worked with 10 to 15 local clients but most of those brands either closed down or moved production to China,” says Christodoulou, who saw an opportunity to revive her father’s workshop and target the growing group of local and international customers who want to know who makes their clothes. She sources cotton and linen from a factory in Nafpaktos in the west of Greece, which is one of the last cotton producers in the country. “People write to me to say that they can’t wait to travel to Athens to try on the collection,” she says. The Vathis neighbourhood in the city centre, is being transformed at a similar pace. It was best avoided until a few years ago but for US-born Andria Mitsakos, the neoclassical building that she took over on Anexartisias Square was the perfect location for her by-appointment concept, Anthologist, where she sells clothing, accessories and furniture produced in small workshops in Athens, Cairo and Armenia. Her presence in the area, along with the opening of the Alekos Fassianos Museum nearby, has helped to transform the face of the neighbourhood. “I make most of my bags, belts, ceramics, jewellery, furniture and stained glass all in this country,” she says. “There’s a shift in perspectives and people’s value systems so they’re appreciating tradition again; what’s old is new.”Ileana Makri designsIleana Makri with her daughter, Myrto AnastassopoulouMitsakos’s business is shining a light on the plethora of skilled artisans across the city and connecting them with a new European and American clientele, who often come in to commission custom pieces. “Athens is a convergence of cultures,” says Mitsakos. “That’s why I feel strongly about also producing in Egypt where so many Greeks still live, “It’s about cultural preservation. People don’t want cookie-cutter, they want pieces with history and soul.”And there’s plenty of soul in Athens, given the intimacy of the shopping experiences on offer and the sheer breadth of products and price points available. You could be commissioning furniture in Exarchia one day and picking a stone for a piece of high jewellery or getting a pair of made-to-measure sandals for less than €100 the next, all the while having coffee and a deep conversation with each business’s owner. Locals are grasping this momentum and are determined to maintain it, with more ambitious shop openings, cross-sector collaborations and a new vision of what modern Greek design could look like. “There’s this freshness in our designs that is surely associated with our country,” says Nikos Koulis. “Every time I land in Athens and see the sunshine, I’m so thankful that I live here.”Address book:Best for Athenian style:Zeus+Dione6 Voukourestiou Street, 10564Elegant leather bags:Callista11 Voukourestiou Street, 10671Footwear haven:Ancient Greek Sandals 1 Kolokotroni Street, 10562One-of-a-kind jewellery:Nikos Koulis15 Filikis Eterias, Kolonaki Square, 10673Meet the tailor:Christakis5 Kriezotou, 10671Made-to-measure sandals:Olgianna Melissinos7Normanou Street, Monastiraki, 10555Best luxury curation:Mouki Mou15 Diogenous, 10556Best-in-class shirts:It’s A Shirt67 Asklipiou, 10680Craft revival:Aphilo Athens49-51 Zoodochou Pigis, 10681To refuel:Wine is Fine6 Vissis, 10551Post-shopping dinner:Linou Soumpasis k sia2 Melanthiou Street, 10554

Interview: Alain Villard, CEO of Swatch

Alain Villard is the charismatic CEO behind Swatch, the Swiss watchmaker known for its brightly hued timepieces that are often associated with our childhoods. But under Villard, Swatch, whose battery-powered watches are frequently credited with saving the Swiss watch industry following the quartz crisis of the 1970s, has succeeded in tuning back into the cultural zeitgeist and attracting the attention of grown-up watch collectors. This is partly thanks to a series of outside-the-box partnerships, including two sell-out collaborations with the Swatch Group’s premium sister brands, Omega and Blancpain. The MoonSwatch – a spin-off of Omega’s popular Speedmaster line, worn on the moon by Buzz Aldrin in 1969 – elicited long queues around the world, with some shops having to close their doors within 30 minutes of the release due to unexpected demand. The excitement remained just as high during the more recent launch of a collaboration with Blancpain, a playful take on its Fifty Fathoms diving watch. Villard is also behind the latest releases in the brand’s long-running Swatch Art Journey collection, which sees the work of famous artists such as Roy Lichtenstein and Jean-Michel Basquiat transformed into wrist-ready masterpieces.Omega is one of the Swatch Group’s premium sister brandsHaving grown up in the canton of Bern in Switzerland’s “Watch Valley”, Villard understood the culture of watchmaking from a young age. He began his tenure at Swatch in 2002 at the company’s shop in Biel, home to the Swatch HQ. He quickly rose through the ranks thanks to his zeal for the brand, becoming retail manager for the Swiss market, then brand manager for Swatch Switzerland. He was named CEO in 2022. Here, he talks to Monocle about Swatch’s success, art-world collaborations and future ambitions. What is Swatch’s position in today’s horology market?Since the brand was founded more than 40 years ago, our aim has been to satisfy a wide audience with our offering. At the same time, we have always taken risks, which have been key to the success of Swatch today. We have a lot of competition in the watch market now, so it’s important to stay faithful to our identity as the world’s favourite “second watch”. The footfall in our shops and the reception of our projects around the world show that Swatch is still a coveted brand. We want to maintain that momentum and keep introducing innovative products.Why did you decide to collaborate with Omega and Blancpain, which operate in a more premium space?By bringing together iconic brands under the Swatch Group umbrella, we were able to really get it right. I was lucky to be part of the task force working on these projects. We could tell that something exciting was happening. We examined every design detail and used the element of surprise to our advantage. These collaborations remain ongoing; we’re constantly developing new ideas and concepts.Were you surprised by the reaction?I wasn’t entirely expecting the reception that we received. We had about 5,000 people waiting outside our shop in Melbourne just before the inaugural launch of the MoonSwatch. And there was the same pattern worldwide; the reception at our Carnaby Street shop in London was equally amazing. I still get goose bumps when I think about it. What’s also impressive is that Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch sales have increased by more than 50 per cent since the launch of the MoonSwatch collection.What was the idea behind your latest Swatch Art Journey collection?We have collaborated with the art world since 1984, the year after the brand was founded. There has always been a lot of consideration from the artists who we partner with, so our design-inspired collections have always been successful. Keith Haring and Kiki Picasso worked with us at the start and we have since collaborated with creatives such as Damien Hirst, José Carlos Casado, Vivienne Westwood, Renzo Piano and Annie Leibovitz, who are true leaders in their respective fields. Artistic flair has always been part of our brand DNA and identity. The latest additions to the Swatch Art Journey collection are exclusive collaborations with major museums and organisations around the world. We wanted to create watches that paid tribute to iconic artworks from different continents, including those in the collections of the Moma in New York, the Louvre Abu Dhabi, Le Gallerie degli Uffizi in Florence and the Estate of Jean-Michel Basquiat.What does the future hold for Swatch?We haven’t made a smartwatch, though I respect brands that have. I’m not saying that we will never make one but it’s important that Swatch timepieces remain coveted fashion items above all else. We want to set trends and create pieces that customers can switch around according to their outfits. Even though I always wear one or, sometimes, even two watches, I can’t recall ever checking the time or longing for the weekend [while at work]. We want our timepieces to be functional but fun too.Second thoughtsA collaboration fatigue had taken hold of the watch market over recent years, as every watchmaker tried to partner with designers, architects or sportsmen on limited-edition designs. On paper such tie-ins look compelling, yet so many lack substance and fail to resonate: slapping joint logos on a dial can only take you so far.But this year we’ve seen a stronger play for creativity. The latest slew of collaborations has felt more grown-up, with watch firms allowing partners to put a genuine stamp on the watches that they co-design.The Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon, designed by couturier Tamara Ralph for Audemars Piguet, and Victoria Beckham’s sleek collection for Breitling – both unveiled in early 2024 – are examples of how to marry a fashion designer’s sensibility with watchmaking. Meanwhile, Italian-Swiss label Panerai has partnered with cultural institutions, the America’s Cup and even the military to offer collectors once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Those buying its limited-edition diving watches, for example, have found themselves visiting the Vatican out-of-hours, or participating in intense US Navy Seal training.Watchmakers should take note: take bigger chances and think about the value of collaboration beyond the end product.

Fashion creatives who are breaking new ground

AprilDenmark & South KoreaAfter Patrik Rolf opened roastery and coffee shop April in Copenhagen in 2020, it quickly became a city institution. Later, when he needed practical workwear for his team, he designed his own and introduced a fashion element to his business. It was a logical move for Rolf, who, having worked for a menswear boutique in Gothenburg, wanted a high-end retail experience to complement his coffee shop. “I see a lot of value in translating the respect for the farm-to-cup chain that we have in the coffee world to other kinds of manufacturing,” he says. Rolf manufactures his clothing in Seoul, where he opened his second concept shop in 2022. “South Korea has some of the world’s best producers of utility clothing,” he says. When it came to design, he drew inspiration from Japan’s workers’ aesthetic, which prizes function over looks. “The utility approach to clothing is all about durability and everyday use,” says Rolf. “It’s not something that you wear once. We create clothing that you can experience life in.” aprilcoffeeroasters.comA-Poc Able Issey MiyakeJapanExperimentation has been central to the Issey Miyake brand ever since the late Japanese designer presented his first show in New York in 1971. It continues to inform his company, especially at sub-labels such as A-Poc Able, which he founded in 1998. Now led by Yoshiyuki Miyamae, A-Poc Able Issey Miyake is preparing for global expansion, with launches in New York, London and Paris in the works. Based in Issey Miyake’s building in Tokyo, Miyamae’s 17-strong team works on new textiles and collaborations with creatives from a range of disciplines. Designs begin as paper models, before they are transferred to screens. Computers are used to create a flat piece of fabric that can be worked into a three-dimensional shape using only the heat of steam: Miyamae demonstrates the process on a seemingly shapeless black T-shirt that is teased into complex folds and curves. Collaborators include artist Tadanori Yokoo and a start-up from Keio University whose new AI algorithm can design clothes with minimal fabric waste. “We wanted to understand what AI is capable of,” says Miyamae (pictured). “It brought fresh perspectives and suggested ideas that we wouldn’t have thought of otherwise.”Miyamae has also joined forces with Fujifilm and the University of Tokyo to work on a metallic ink that can be printed on film and used for accessories. Another special project is a collaboration with photographer Sohei Nishino, whose diorama of London has been recreated in woven jacquard as a reversible coat; meanwhile, a New York diorama features on a pair of five-pocket trousers. These limited-edition pieces will be available in London from 26 April to mark the arrival of A-Poc Able at the Issey Miyake shop in Mayfair. Miyamae is always pushing fashion’s boundaries but he never forgets about creating desirable clothes. “Beauty is key,” he says. isseymiyake.comClare Waight KellerUniqlo: C, JapanClare Waight Keller is best known for her work as creative director of French luxury houses Chloé and Givenchy. In Paris, she made her mark with designs that fused romance with utility while driving commercial success. In 2020 she stepped back from high fashion only to take on a new challenge in 2022 in the form of Uniqlo: C, a partnership with the Japanese retail giant that has allowed her grounded approach to design to flourish. Here, she shares her vision for Uniqlo: C and her spring range. What was the appeal in partnering with Uniqlo?Uniqlo has been in my life for about 12 years. I discovered it through its work with Jil Sander, who I really admire. This was an amazing opportunity for me to do something similar for the generation that has been following my career. It’s exciting to be able to do something on such a democratic scale. I wanted to bring to the collaboration the femininity of my work at Chloé and my understanding of couture from my time at Givenchy. These are skills that can be adapted to finishings, proportions and fits, even if the clothes are at different price points.How did your approach to design change?When you work at a high level of luxury, you’re looking at branding and thinking about a runway show every season, so it’s a slightly different vantage point. But in terms of researching fabrics, colours and silhouettes, the process is very much the same today. It just stays more grounded in reality, instead of being a runway fantasy. That has always been part of my language.Could you tell us about your new spring collection?I was mindful that the Uniqlo customer is global and crosses many different climates, so we focused on the idea of layering. I wanted to design a collection that can be worn all year and create a wardrobe that will not only help women look more chic but will also bring a sense of playfulness. That’s why, in the spring collection in particular, you’ll find pops of colour. They complement the neutral base and encourage you to have fun.uniqlo.comSS DaleyUKLiverpool fashion designer Steven Stockey-Daley began the year with a new investor and a runway show at Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio. “Every corner of that city feels like an art gallery,” he says. “We wanted to bring some lightness with our clothes.” The new range pays homage to the tailoring traditions of both Italy and the UK. “The core designs were based around different states of formality and the feeling of seeing Italy the first time,” he adds. This translates into double-pleat trousers and corduroy suits, as well as elegant, waxed-cotton jackets and parkas (pictured). ssdaley.comOfficine GénéraleFranceParisian label Officine Générale is best known for its elegant tailoring but this year it has broadened its scope to the world of beauty with Smoky Olive, a line of fragrance-related products including candles, room scents and hand washes bringing heady aromas such as burnt wood and vetiver. For the label’s founder, Pierre Mahéo, and his wife, Nina Mahéo Haverkamp, scent has always offered comfort and everyday pleasure. The garden of their house in Spain and the seaside pines of Brittany, where Mahéo grew up, became their primary sources of inspiration, translated into a distinctive smoky smell with notes of ginger, rosemary and cedar. The products are all made in France, with candles created using soy and coconut oils, as well as olive-oil soaps crafted using traditional techniques from Marseille. officinegenerale.comFieldsSouth AfricaWhen Mikael Hanan, co-founder of online fashion retailer Superbalist, launched menswear brand Fields in 2019, he was adamant that his team would work out of its flagship shop in Cape Town. “I enjoy being close to customers,” he says. “We’re trying to prove that we can do it all from here.” Fields also sources fabric and manufactures in the country. At its boutique, shoppers browse a collection of chinos, workwear jackets and cotton crewnecks. The brand mostly takes a classic approach to design but Hanan also ensures that he regularly introduces new colours and limited-edition items (including a collaboration with artist Andile Dylvane), so that his customers always have a reason to return. fieldsstore.com

Rimowa expands its horizons with a sleek entry into luxury handbags

On any given day, if you’re on a train between Köln and Paris, you’re likely to spot plenty of hard-shell Rimowa suitcases in the overhead compartments. But when entire carriages seem loaded with the German company’s wares, it’s probably a sign that the brand has been gathering its team for an all-hands meeting. Lately, this back-and-forth between its factory in Ossendorf, just outside Köln, and its creative offices in central Paris has been occurring at a much higher frequency than usual. All of this activity is in preparation for one of the brand’s most significant launches to date: its debut handbag and, notably, its first foray outside the travel sector, in which it has been operating for the past 126 years.The hard shell of a Rimowa suitcaseCEO Hugues Bonnet-Masimbert“It’s a leap of faith,” says Rimowa’s ceo, Hugues Bonnet-Masimbert. “Historically, our products have been associated with going to the airport or the train station but we felt the urge to enter daily commuting too.” The new bag, dubbed the Original, looks like Rimowa’s signature aluminium suitcase but it has been sized down to snugly fit an A5 book. It can be carried by leather handles or over the shoulder on a canvas strap. Getting its shape just right took more than two years. “We iterated an incredible number of times,” says Bonnet-Masimbert. “There were hours of meetings between crazy engineers, designers and myself.”Metal sheets on the factory floorBonnet-Masimbert meets monocle in Ossendorf, an industrial area with an unusual preponderance of factories built from grooved metal. There’s a delegation from Paris here and an excited bustle all around the campus. On the factory floor, a team assembles the Original bags that are due for delivery. In one corner, curved aluminium shells are attached and equipped with corner plates and handles. Across the room, the bag is fitted with a leather interior. The design has already made a high-profile cameo in Pedro Almodóvar’s latest Golden Lion-winning film,The Room Next Door, in which Tilda Swinton opens the bag and lets out a scream – in awe of the buttery leather lining, perhaps. The following day, it will make its way to Rimowa shops worldwide, including a dedicated pop-up in Shenzhen. It will also feature on billboards across the globe, including Berlin, Dubai and London.The Rimowa campusRimowa had already been working on expanding its product line to soft bags, such as canvas backpacks and weekender totes, as well as the clutch-sized Personal bag, which comes in both polycarbonate and aluminium. However, these were conceived and marketed as accessories to the suitcases, meant for carrying passports and other essentials while in transit. “In a way, they were easier to do,” says Bonnet-Masimbert. “But deep down, I’ve always wanted to make a handbag using our expertise.” It’s why the launch of the Original carries such weight for the business. It would be easy to dismiss it as a new size in an existing design – but it reflects the company’s broader ambitions to build its reputation beyond luggage and claim a stake in the competitive luxury handbag category, long ruled by Dior, Louis Vuitton and Celine, its sister brands in French conglomerate lvmh.Even for a storied business such as Rimowa, successfully orchestrating this kind of pivot can take years of perfecting the design, working with suppliers and crafting the right marketing strategy. In fact, Rimowa has been planting the seeds of a new category launch for years. Ever since it was acquired by lvmh in 2016 (Alexandre Arnault, one of the youngest scions of founder Bernard Arnault, had long been a fan), the brand embarked on a big marketing push. It released partnerships with the likes of Supreme, Fendi, Off-White and Dior, brought most of its distribution in-house and, this spring, opened a pop-up café in partnership with La Marzocco during Milan’s Salone del Mobile. “We dabbled in the fashion space but mostly through collaborations,” says Bonnet-Masimbert, who took the reins in 2021. “Now, we are flying with our own wings.”To be in a position to soar, Bonnet-Masimbert has been making changes inside the Rimowa campus, which has close to 700 employees. By optimising workflow and increasing the number of production lines, it has more than doubled manufacturing capacity. In the dedicated accessories section, the team has been producing small goods such as phone cases ahead of its big handbag debut. “Even our iPhone cases are made in the factory,” says Bonnet-Masimbert. “That is very unusual for the industry.”Five lessons for entrepreneurs looking to diversify their brands:1.Stick to your expertiseA complete overhaul is rarely a good idea. Think about what your company is really skilled at and how that might be employed in a new category.2. Don’t outsourceIt might be easy to simply stick your logo on items that you’ve had produced in a foreign factory – but your customers will notice.3. Set your own paceThink carefully before committing to the frenetic calendars of trade fairs or fashion weeks. Nobody needs more hastily designed stuff.4. Stay true to your rootsCustomers can relate to a new product more easily if it somehow connects back to a company’s heritage. Many good ideas also come from digging through the archives.5. Look for inspiration outside your industryRimowa was just another luggage manufacturer before its aviation-obsessed owner decided to emulate an aeroplane’s aluminium hull.Investing in German design and manufacturing has allowed the brand to differentiate its new handbag from competitors. For Bonnet-Masimbert, the bag’s inherently German, function-first design is its strongest selling point. He has long had a deep-seated understanding of German consumer and manufacturing values, having spent years working as a shop manager in German cities including Köln, where he was once the sales advisor of the Louis Vuitton boutique. So when he embarked on the very French endeavour of making a fashionable handbag, he ensured that the brief was tailored to Rimowa’s design dna.“We wanted it to be both premium and functional,” he says. “Part of the headache we gave our designers was that it should be suitable for going to work, as well as to yoga and to a wedding.” The bag also needed to be unisex – unlike most luxury fashion, which is skewed towards women’s ready-to-wear and accessories, Rimowa’s customer base is split evenly between men and women. Finally, it had to be made in Köln.Fulfilling the brief required a lot of back-and-forth between Rimowa’s design team in Paris and the r&d and engineering departments in Köln. “Producing small aluminium objects is a huge technical challenge,” says Bonnet-Masimbert. “The world of daily commuting also has a much wider scope of functionality and higher aesthetic requirements,” he adds, pointing to the numerous technical challenges that tested the Rimowa team throughout the development process.During the early stages, the team realised that the process couldn’t easily be repeated at such a small scale and sought the help of another German company specialising in moulding aluminium objects. Switching from a canvas to a leather lining also offered another steep learning curve. The classic Rimowa clasps wouldn’t work, either – they looked clunky and required two hands to open. The solution? A new lock that lets the bag pop open at the press of a button. “At some point, you’ll be pushing your bike with one hand and then you need to open this bag,” says Bonnet-Masimbert. “It might all sound trivial but we debated every little detail.”Finishing touchesWrapping it upThis kind of design process is uncommon, even in luxury fashion. For starters, the making of most handbags does not involve engineers. But going the extra mile has paid off. Unlike traditional luxury bags, seen as status symbols that are too precious to touch the ground, Rimowa’s Original can take more than a few blows. “In our minds, there is sheer beauty in a bag that ages,” says Bonnet-Masimbert, who is always looking for ways to connect the dots between the different categories and honour the company’s founding values.In some ways, he says, the Original represents a return to Rimowa’s roots. The oldest piece in the brand’s archive, from the early 1900s, is a ladies’ baguette handbag, prophetically made from ribbed leather, resembling the now-famous grooves on its aluminium luggage. It also aligns with the brand’s commitment to serving all facets of contemporary mobility. According to the ceo, people are taking more trips and they see less of a distinction between travelling and being at home – they’re just always on the move. So it makes sense to offer a product that can be carried around in daily life. “When you’re a 126-year-old brand, you’ve accompanied people from riding horses to flying into space,” he says. “We’re trying to imagine new travel philosophies.”The timing of the launch taps into a broader momentum in German design. “There is something extremely contemporary about the value of most exclusive German brands,” says Bonnet-Masimbert, listing Porsche, Mercedes-Benz, Leica and Birkenstock. “The ability of German product design to deliver on not just aesthetics but also on performance, longevity and durability – it echoes the aspirations of people all around the world.”These values will help to guide Bonnet-Masimbert’s decisions as he develops the brand’s product ranges further. He has already installed a team of engineers to work on new projects and plans to open an innovation building on the Ossendorf campus by 2026. As the worlds of fashion and travel continue to evolve, there’s plenty left to explore but Bonnet-Masimbert says that nobody should expect Rimowa to follow in fellow lvmh brands’ footsteps and start offering fully fledged runway collections or seasonal items any time soon. “We’re different. Our dna is deeply connected to our history and industry know-how.” His approach is proof that no matter the size or age of a brand, diversifying takes time – and only those that are patient will be able to guarantee their businesses’ futures. — Lrimowa.com

Narrative threads: Fashion houses are investing in filmmaking in a new era of brand storytelling

The past couple of years have been brutal for Hollywood, with the 2023 actors’ and writers’ strikes miring the big studios in financial difficulties and having long-term repercussions for production schedules. But there is a crack of light over the Santa Monica mountains. European fashion houses are planting their flags in the entertainment industry and making major investments that are re-energising Tinseltown and shifting industry dynamics.In late 2023, François-Henri Pinault, the owner of French luxury group Kering, took a majority stake in Creative Artists Agency (CAA) for $7bn (€6.6bn), gaining access to the biggest black book of Hollywood talent. A few months later, Kering’s competitor LVMH announced plans to establish a media arm called 22 Montaigne Entertainment, named after the group’s Avenue Montaigne office address in Paris. The venture’s CEO, Anish Melwani, toldVarietymagazine that LVMH is hoping to explore opportunities in TV, film and audio production “that will showcase unique portfolios and values” for its brands.Illustrator:Maya NguyenThis increased involvement is starting to reshape how movies are made and who calls the shots. Fashion and film have long been partners but, until now, the relationship has tended to be transactional – think the politics and backroom deals that go into who dresses who on the red carpet. An association with the right label has long been a tool used to propel an actor’s career to new heights. “Certain stars really understand the way that it works,” says Valerie Steele, the director and chief curator of the museum at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology. “Marlene Dietrich always insisted on being dressed by Dior, both on- and off-screen.”Now there’s an opportunity for the labels to develop these relationships and become more involved in filmmaking. “Brands currently invest more than ever in Hollywood but their budgets have been going towards red-carpet events and product placement,” says Lauren Sherman, the Los Angeles-based fashion editor of news start-up Puck. “The thinking is, ‘Why not make the films ourselves?’”Saint Laurent, which is owned by Kering, has already launched a fully fledged subsidiary dedicated to filmmaking. In January, Saint Laurent Productions will release The Shrouds, a horror movie written and directed by David Cronenberg. It is one of three features that the company produced in 2024, all of which were screened at the Cannes Film Festival. “I want to work with and provide a space for all the great film talents who have inspired me over the years,” said the label’s creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, at the time. Vaccarello has also worked with the likes of Pedro Almodóvar and Paolo Sorrentino. Naturally, he gets the last word on the clothes in all of the pictures.The big investments aren’t just making the love affair between fashion and film more public. They also reveal how swiftly and significantly the idea of marketing is changing. Luxury brands have traditionally spent vast sums supporting contemporary art, enjoying the prestige that comes with it. Today, however, some are no longer content simply to be patrons of culture – they want to be its creators too. And they are willing to invest more money in telling stories that draw from their values or histories.There are already many films and TV series depicting the fashion industry, includingLa Maison(Apple TV1) andCristóbal Balenciaga(Disney1). But none of these productions come from the actual luxury houses. Ridley Scott’s 2021 film,House of Gucci– which tells the damaging story of the 1995 murder of Maurizio Gucci – highlights what can happen when such brands aren’t in control of their own narrative.LVMH has been quiet about what 22 Montaigne will do next but it is understood that it will be looking at films to develop. The entertainment arm’s founding partner, Superconnector Studios, is one of a growing number of agencies specialising in bringing brands and studios together. “It’s simple – entertainmentmakesa lot of money, whereas advertisingcostsyou money,” says Jenna Barnet, the CEO of Sunshine, a brand consultancy based in London, Los Angeles and New York. It has helped Victoria’s Secret to shoot a full-length documentary in lieu of a traditional runway show; the company also developed a drama series with the UK’s Channel 4 for Parisian luxury house Balmain. “We find ways of getting world builders to talk to each other,” says Ed Warren, Sunshine’s chief creative officer.Storytelling is a form of soft power, says Warren. He cites Apple TV1, which commissions films and series that communicate the idea of being best in class, from the calibre of the talent to the production values. This benefits the streaming service’s parent company, Apple Inc, even though the stories have nothing to do with the phones and computers at the core of its business. “It’s building status equity, not simply as a sponsor of culture but as an active participant,” says Warren.In fashion, Tom Ford was ahead of the game. He directed and produced two successful films –A Single ManandNocturnal Animals– while he was still in charge of his eponymous fashion house. Neither movie made any direct reference to the brand (aside from the clothes that the characters wore) but they invited the audience deeper into Ford’s world and his aesthetic. Crucially, the films linger in the mind longer than any conventional advertisement. “A film has to be something that haunts you,” Ford toldVanity Fair.The challenge for brands seeking to dip their toes into filmmaking is to create something that’s worth watching. Critics panned the Apple TV1 showThe New Look, about the life of Christian Dior, for its poor character development and tepid script. There’s an opportunity for brands to mine their archives and tell their own stories in more compelling and favourable ways. After all, audiences seem to have an insatiable appetite for depictions of the industry. These are plotlines that write themselves, full of power, glamour and politics – and usually the added spice of familial strife.But if these luxury behemoths want to make a true mark on Hollywood, they should follow Saint Laurent’s example and take risks with the stories that they tell. “Will people take 22 Montaigne seriously?” asks Sherman. “That depends on whether it can make something good.” Given their enormous budgets, vastly wealthy owners and access to top talent, fashion groups have unique opportunities to start influencing what we see on our screens, just as much as they influence the contents of our wardrobes. If played right, they will occupy a place in our imaginations once held by the big studios during the golden age of Hollywood. Pass the popcorn.

Subtle spring looks with the season’s best combinations

Cardigan, shirt and trousers byDunhill, t-shirt byCahlumn, glasses byMykita, patrimony automatic watch byVacheron ConstantinJacket and trousers byEmporio Armani, shirt byEton, socks byTabio, shoes byAlden, glasses byMykita, patrimony automatic watch byVacheron ConstantinCardigan and T-shirt byStudio Nicholson, trousers byColmar, glasses byMykita, 1815 up/down watch byA Lange & SöhneJumper byDunhill, shirt byComoli, trousers byIncotex, glasses byMykita, big bang gold ceramic watch byHublotOuter jacket byVisvim, jacket and jeans byComoli, socks byTabio, shoes byJM Weston, glasses byMykita, oyster perpetual explorer 40 watch byRolexJacket and backpack byPrada, trousers byIncotex, shoes byJM Weston, glasses byMykita, suitcase byRimowaCoat byStudio Nicholson, sweatshirt and sweatpants byEmporio Armani, t-shirt byCahlumn, shoes byLoro PianaShirt by jumper byAgnona,Beams Plus, shorts byHerno, 1815 up/down watch byA Lange & SöhneShirt byComoli, T-shirt byCahlumn, trousers byBeams Plus, socks byTabio, shoes byJM Weston, glasses byMykita, oyster perpetual explorer 40 watch byRolexJacket and T-shirt byBrioni, trousers byIncotex, glasses byMykita, 1815 up/down watch byA Lange & SöhneJacket byMontedoro, shirt and shorts byEmporio Armani, shoes byLoro PianaJacket and jeans byVisvim, polo shirt byBeams Plus, shoes byJM Weston, glasses byMykitaJacket and trousers byCircolo 1901, shirt byGlanshirt, glasses byMykita, SBGH301 watch byGrand Seiko, belt byJM WestonShirt byColon, shorts byIncotex, shoes byLoro Piana, oyster perpetual explorer 40 watch byRolexModel: Ikken YamamotoGrooming: Kenichi YaguchiProducer: Shigeru Nakagawa

Coast to clothes: Fashion labels that tailor to an island lifestyle

1.MirèioFranceMargaux Varnavidou has spent more than a decade working for luxury groups such as LVMH and living in busy cities including New York and Paris. Her husband, Paul-Henri Bayart, meanwhile, pursued a career in finance. Both were operating at the same lightning-fast pace but, in 2020, they pressed pause. During the coronavirus lockdowns, they began spending more time in the Mediterranean, between Bayart’s native Provence and Cyprus, where Varnavidou’s maternal family is from.Coast-inspired colour paletteThe sunshine, slower pace of life and proximity to the sea inspired the couple to get creative and embark on their first joint project, Mirèio – a fashion brand inspired by their mutual Mediterranean heritage and the region’s sunny, carefree spirit. “Despite our different backgrounds, we were both passionate about clothing first and the Mediterranean second,” says Varnavidou.After nearly two years of researching, gathering inspiration from living by the sea and visiting flea markets, they debuted Mirèio with their now-signature Smock shirts. These laidback designs can be thrown over a swimsuit but also layered with a T-shirt for breezy island evenings. They’re made from a sturdy cotton fabric and feature charming Provençal prints, rendered more contemporary by their unisex, boxy silhouettes. “We love Provençal prints but everything in the market felt outdated – we wanted to rework these patterns into more modern, comfortable designs,” says Varnavidou. “The inspiration came from a traditional French sailor jacket that my husband’s grandmother used to have in her wardrobe. My husband used to wear a lot of [these jackets] too, so we created what we wanted to wear personally.” Some of the Smocks for women feature a playful, extra large sailor collar, while unisex styles feature a shorter, classic one.Paul-Henri BayartMargaux VarnavidouSpirit of the seaMoment in the sunThe south of France was the central reference point for the couple as they were dreaming up the concept for Mirèio, the Provençal form of the name Mireille. “That’s the name of my husband’s grandmother and the title of a famous Frédéric Mistral poem about two lovers coming together, which resonated with us,” says Varnavidou, reminiscing of recent roadtrips that took them from Arles to St Tropez and Marseille. The fabrics for the collections are sourced from a manufacturer in Saint-Étienne-du-Grès that has been operating since the early 19th century and specialises in traditional printed textiles.“The mission is to revive and celebrate the spirit of the Mediterranean but also its unique savoir-faire. Even if it’s expensive to produce here, we have to stay true to our ethos.”Varnavidou’s Cypriot heritage – her family is from the town of Famagusta and now lives in Larnaca – and time spent on the island also had a role to play when it came to shaping the label. After all, there’s a shared language across the region, centred on joy, generosity and openness. “We are true children of the Mediterranean and love the entire region from east to west,” says Varnavidou. “The lifestyle touches every part of our lives, from the music we like to our children’s names. It’s not just a source of inspiration for the brand.”Mirèio shoesProvençal printsIt’s why last year, the couple also chose to open Taverna, a Cypriot restaurant, in Paris’s 11th arrondissement, serving all the dishes that Varnavidou enjoys when spending summers on the island. “The two projects feed each other,” she adds. “Taverna has a stronger Cypriot identity but we wear the Smocks in the restaurant and often use Mirèio as inspiration for the decor; it’s a full Mediterranean ecosystem.” Just like the couple gave the traditional sailor jackets a modern twist, they have also been working to add their own take on traditional, almost outdated, dishes that you would only be able to taste in a Cypriot grandmother’s kitchen, such astavabaked lamb.Delicious island food, year-round sunshine and traditional cotton textiles have all helped to bring Mirèio to life and attract the interest of multi-brand boutiques, including Les Galeries Tropeziennes in St Tropez, Joyeuserie in Hong Kong and Bon in Tucson, Arizona, which now stock the label. But perhaps the most important inspiration the couple took away from living across the Mediterranean is the region’s flair for slow living – and working. They make a point not to design big seasonal collections and prefer to gradually introduce new pieces, or “surprises”, as they call them, every few months – the latest being an elegant sleeveless vest. “This isn’t a Parisian brand,” says Varnavidou, who is preparing trips to St Tropez, Cyprus and the Greek islands this summer. “We want to work at a slower pace – it’s a way to turn every piece into a signature. We always return to Cyprus as a family but also make sure that we explore other parts of the region to keep decoding the local lifestyle and inspiring our designs.”mireio-paris.com2.Cecilia SörensenMallorcaFinnish-born, Mallorca-based fashion designer Cecilia Sörensen’s clothes evoke a breeziness that’s synonymous with island life. “Being in Mallorca relaxes my designs,” she tells MONOCLE. “Everything is more laidback and slow here. If I were designing my collections in Finland, they would be more austere and stiff.” Loose dresses made from cotton muslin – ideal for throwing over a swimming suit – and kimono-inspired jackets cut to a boxy fit quickly became her signature styles. They’re romantic yet, at the same time, rooted in reality.After learning the craft of tailoring in Helsinki, Sörensen decamped to Barcelona, where she launched her namesake brand in 2002. Six years ago she relocated to Mallorca with her husband and children, and settled in a village in the Tramuntana mountain range that makes up the northwest of the Balearic island. “Mallorca is special,” says Sörensen. “It almost hurts to travel because I miss the mountains when I’m not here.” At her workshop a 20-minute drive from her home in Alaró, Sörensen works with five seamstresses to produce every item in her seasonal collections, using cotton from a family-owned mill in Barcelona, as well as linen, jacquard and wool sourced from Spain and Italy.Designer in the Alber dressShirt dress in olive-green linen“I cut the first pattern and make the prototype, then the seamstresses take it from there,” says Sörensen. There’s a lot of back-and-forth during this stage, with some designs dialled down and details, such as the internal pockets of waistcoats, tweaked to perfection.Earthy tonesSuch attention to detail is aided by her commitment to keeping operations close to home and producing everything, from start to finish, on the island. “It would be less expensive to produce in Barcelona but it’s important to do it here.” The designer has even been known to hand-deliver orders, cycling directly from her atelier to the boutique in Palma that carries her label – another attempt to work responsibly and minimise her carbon footprint.In the blackThe label is stocked beyond Mallorca, in a number of independent boutiques in Austria, Germany, Belgium and the US. Buyers are drawn to Sörensen’s carefree designs, particularly her shirt dresses and oversized blouses, all rendered in earthy terracotta and yellow tones reminiscent of Mallorcan sunsets. Even the darker knitted vests and linen overshirts carry the island ease that Sörensen has come to embody. “I’ve lived in Spain on and off for 20 years now,” she adds. “I hope that my designs can offer something that feels grounded in reality and the local community, rather than the stereotypical white linen outfits for expats sipping white wine.”ceciliasorensen.com3.Isole&VulcaniItalyFilicudi is a small island in the volcanic Aeolian chain north of Sicily, a pyramid of lava-made land where there are no cars, no streetlights and a mere 200 or so residents.Swimwear brand Isole&Vulcani was born here in 1989, when Daniela Fadda put together her first designs using just cotton and knots. Today, Cristiano Fini, Fadda’s son, maintains the brand with his wife, Sara Goldschmied, its designer and daughter of jeans pioneer Adriano Goldschmied. Naturally, the couple met and married on Filicudi. “We’re obsessed,” says Fini. “The island is our favourite place.”To respect the brand’s idyllic land of origin, Isole&Vulcani collections offer some of the most responsibly made swimwear on the market. Unlike most commercial swimwear, which is made from synthetic fibres such as Lycra, nylon and other plastics, the label uses certified Italian-made organic cotton-jersey and natural dyes, with minimal elastic. “It feels completely different on the skin to plastic materials,” says Fini.Dive right in!The natural dyes also create a palette of soft, earthy hues – marsala, berry, olive – that mirror the landscapes of the island. Most summers, the duo also release printed and special-edition styles in collaboration with other design talents, such as Marta Ferri and even Adriano Goldschmied.Boutique in FilicudiThe brand has a flagship shop in Milan but its Filicudi boutique is still going strong. Manufacturing has come a long way since Fini’s mother ran the brand. Originally, the suits lacked stitching because sewing machines and electricity were hard to come by here. Though that’s no longer an issue today, Fini and Goldschmied still ensure that only the minimum of seams are stitched with a machine – all in the name of honouring Filicudi’s raw beauty.isolevulcani.com

The summer essentials that will elevate your wardrobe this season

Hunza GUKLondon-based swimwear label Hunza G has found success thanks to its elegant cuts and signature crinkle fabric, which is stretchy enough to fit any body shape and to see you through a lifetime of summer dips. Now the brand is expanding beyond its popular swimsuits for the first time with the Weekend capsule collection, a line of laid-back shirt-and-shorts sets. They come in blue striped cotton, as well as black-and-white linen and work both on the beach and as loungewear.As the brand celebrates its 40th anniversary, its aim is to add even more to its offering. “The shirting capsule is just the beginning,” says creative director Georgiana Huddard.hunzag.comKlokeAustraliaBased in Melbourne, Kloke is a contemporary fashion label co-founded by partners in life and business, Amy Gallagher and Adam Coombes. Its spring/summer 2024 collection features eye-catching embroidered caps and lightweight seersucker shirts. We have our eye on this khaki number (pictured): it’s a smarter alternative to the classic T-shirt and highlights Gallagher and Coombes’ flair for breathable, warm weather-appropriate fabrics and loose silhouettes – ideal for long, sunny days at the beach.kloke.com.auVilebrequin + Inès de la FressangeFranceSitting on a light-filled patio in central Paris, Inès de la Fressange muses on what makes the perfect swimwear. “I just want to feel good in my skin and be able to wear my swimsuit in different kinds of circumstances,” she says. The 66-year-old former model created the versatile designs she had been searching for by joining forces with Vilebrequin, a label based in St Tropez known for its colourful swimming trunks for men. In 2013 it added women’s resort wear to its offer. The collection includes striped Balinese trousers and foldable sun hats – the kinds of items that De la Fressange would pack for a weekend at the beach. The collection also happens to be in the colours of the French flag – a nod to the Olympics. “The idea was to celebrate France andchic à la française,” says Roland Herlory, CEO of Vilebrequin. “Working with Inès seemed like a perfect fit.”vilebrequin.comAcqua di ParmaItalyAcqua di Parma has unveiled Chapeau, candles-cum-design objects shaped, as the name suggests, like a hat. Dorothée Meilichzon, founder of Paris-based design agency Chzon, worked on the witty new design, which consists of two ceramic candle holders, both of which feature the label’s signature Luce di Colonia scent. Its citrus and floral notes instantly evoke the smell of summer.acquadiparma.comGet onboardGlobalBoat shoes were invented in 1935 after businessman Paul Sperry fell off his sailing boat. After observing his cocker spaniel’s foot pads, he created the famous non-slip Sperry Top-Siders, featuring incised rubber soles that mimicked his dog’s paws. Since then, his lightweight, preppy designs have become the shoe of choice for everyone from US presidents to sailing enthusiasts around the world. Sperry’s shoes were always rooted in function and comfort – he never wanted to ignite a fashion trend. Still, boat shoes are now the most in-demand style of the summer, with brands such as Miu Miu designing their own.Boat shoes add the right amount of pep to summer looks, especially when paired with crisp cotton shorts for men or elegant midi skirts for women. We recommend reacquainting yourself with this wardrobe classic with Sebago’s Portland design in navy or a John Lobb pair in yellow (both pictured).sebago.co.uk,miumiu.com,johnlobb.comValextraItalyTo toast the Paris Olympic Games, Italian leather-goods specialist Valextra has created a capsule collection of limited-edition bag charms, inspired by the sports that will compete this summer. Think tennis balls, basketballs, golf balls and volleyballs transformed into 3D charms with long leather straps that can be added to keyrings or the handles of your favourite day bag. They look particularly good hanging from Valextra’s denim and raffia striped totes – a chic, playful way to channel your love of sport.valextra.comHereuSpainHereu’s new collection of leather coin purses, which come in the shape of fruit, was designed to channel the sunny spirit of the Mediterranean – and add humour to any summer outfit. The purses are made using a soft, grainy calf leather in artisanal factories across Spain in line with the label’s commitment to offer limited editions of handcrafted products and support family-owned workshops.hereustudio.comJean-Marc PontrouéCEO, Panerai, Italy & SwitzerlandSwiss-Italian watchmaker Panerai is one of the younger players in a watch market dominated by storied Swiss firms. But rather than trying to play catch-up, CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué has been focusing on carving out Panerai’s niche in the world of sailing watches and all things adventure. The label has a history of supplying the Italian Royal Navy and is best known for styles such as the water-resistant Submersible, created in partnership with Luna Rossa, the sailing team under the Prada Group. But among dedicated watch collectors, it’s known for giving its most loyal customers access to money-can’t-buy-adventures, from sailing with the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team to rigorous military training. Here he tells us about the power of the in-person experience.What sets Panerai apart?Panerai only started in 1987 and took off in the early 2000s. But this is a brand based on a community of dedicated collectors who watched Panerai grow; that’s its beauty. It’s Italian, it’s masculine and it has a strong technical component. What are you focusing on this year?We have one clear message and that’s our partnership with Luna Rossa and the 37th America’s Cup in Barcelona. It’s a natural playground for Panerai. What is your strategy when it comes to bricks-and-mortar retail?I believe in the power of physical retail but it has to be experiential. When people come into one of our shops, they get to learn about our story and enjoy a slice of Italy. We also make sure to follow our customers wherever they go: we built a shop aboard the [cruise ship] MSC Luxury Explora and we were one of the first watch brands to open in Saudi Arabia and in summer locations such as Capri and Santorini. We love the element of surprise.panerai.com

Zeus + Dione’s co-founders on reconnecting with Greek craft traditions

It shouldn’t come as a surprise that as you approach the Zeus + Dione eyewear laboratory in Kryoneri, a northern suburb of Athens, you spot goats, wild boar and the odd cow wandering around the pine-tree- dotted meadows. This is a brand born out of a desire to reconnect with craft traditions and nature, as well as forge partnerships with the best local manufacturers.Twelve years since its inception, the business co-founded by Dimitra Kolotoura and Mareva Grabowski-Mitsotakis, Greece’s current first lady, has revived abandoned silk factories and employs artisans across the country to embroider kaftans or create woven fabrics on traditional wooden looms. Naturally, the brand has always thrived on summer wear, starting with a line of handmade leather sandals and expanding to breezy linen tailoring, as well as the most elegant beachwear and cotton shirting, which immediately brings the Mediterranean sun to mind. Kolotoura, an ambitious businesswoman with global expansion plans, has always been working on developing the brand’s collections and completing the Zeus + Dione look. Handmade precisionItalian machinery, Greek designSunglasses were at the top of her agenda. The sun shines brightly year-round in Greece, so shades are as essential as your wallet or keys when you leave the house. “I always had a passion for sunglasses,” says Kolotoura. “Eight years ago, when I decided that we should expand into eyewear, everyone in the office looked at me as though I were crazy,” she says. Rigorous research and a commitment to the brand’s “Made in Greece” ethos led Kolotoura to the Nea Optiki, an Athenian artisanal factory specialising in high-end, handcrafted eyewear.The facility opened in 2013, as a response to Greece’s economic crisis of the 2010s and the closure of eyewear factories in Italy. Consulting with industry friends from across the Mediterranean, Nea Optiki co-founder Costas Destounis decided to purchase the machinery from the abandoned factories across Italy and, alongside his brother and cousin, bring luxury eyewear manufacturing to Greece. Since then the trio has assembled a team of experts – employees are trained for several months before they can join the team on the factory floor – and begun crafting eyewear that has won a reputation for its handmade qualities and green credentials. The factory roof is covered with solar panels, harnessing the sun’s energy to power the machinery in what is the only carbon-neutral factory in Greece. A pair of Leonidas“We began with 500 square metres of factory space,” says Destounis, speaking above the roaring sound of the workspace’s many tumbling machines. “Since then our production facility has tripled in size to 1,500 square metres to meet the demand we have for the eyewear that we produce.” Inside the vast hexagonal devices are thousands of perfectly polished wooden frames. They are buffed through four different types of tumbling equipment for 24 hours each time, before heading to the room next door for a final hand polish.Bold styles are key to the brand’s successThe partnership with Zeus + Dione, which includes both manufacturing and distribution of the label’s sunglasses collections, has played a key role in the factory’s expansion, allowing Destounis to employ and train even more staff. “We had an extremely good chemistry from the start,” says Destounis of his collaboration with Kolotoura. When the Apollo – their first frame design, combining acetate and metallic details – consistently sold out and prompted fast-fashion copies, he knew that he was onto a good thing. Now Zeus + Dione sunglasses are sold across Europe and the US, from department stores such as Harrods in London and Saks Fifth Avenue in New York to popular multi-brand boutiques in Athens, including Aesthet. “I proposed that Zeus + Dione design a full collection of sunglasses that we could then distribute across Europe,” he says, explaining how he works closely with Kolotoura on designing the frames. “It’s very rare to have the brand so involved in the design process but because Dimitra has such strict and high standards about the brand identity, all the design happens as a collaboration,” he adds, ordering a coffee for Kolotoura without needing to ask how she takes it.Dimitra Kolotoura in Diorane sunglassesIason sunglassesZeus framesOption called KritonSuch close-knit partnerships are rare in the eyewear industry. Fashion labels tend to licence their sunglasses collections to the conglomerates that dominate the market and often become divorced from the creation process. Instead, Kolotoura and Destounis have fostered a different type of relationship – one which is now paying off. The pair’s designs are bolder and more individualistic than anything else in the market, helping the company to attract clients in search of distinctive styles who continue to bring new business to Nea Optiki. Collections range from colour-block frames and cat-eye styles in punchy hues to elegant, geometric forms such as the “Thalassa” (Greek for sea). It is a playful, pick-and-mix of eyewear to suit a variety of situations, whether you’re looking to make a statement for your next beach holiday or opting for a more discreet item for summers in the city, there’s something for everyone. Colour one’s viewKolotoura admits she had a feeling the project would work out, as soon as she stepped inside Nea Optiki. “I went to a couple of small workshops and kept hearing, ‘No, it can’t be done,’ when I shared my ideas,” she says. “Kostas immediately liked the concept and expressed an interest, so I knew that I had found the right person.” The Zeus + Dione co-founder has come a long way since launching the brand in 2012, at a time when Greece was still grappling with financial upheaval, a global media slammed its politicians and speculation mounted about a “Grexit”. At that time, a project that celebrated the country and its traditions seemed laughable, yet Kolotoura and Grabowski-Mitsotakis (who has now exited the business) felt that it was time to get creative and shift public perception. “When the situation in Greece was bad and we were represented on the world stage in such negative light, it created an anger inside me,” says Kolotoura of her initial motivations. Even though they had never designed for a fashion label before, they had a vision that was equal parts romantic and forward-thinking, blending elements of ancient Greek and folkloric traditions with modern silhouettes. Working with an in-house design team, the pair’s initial collection of sandals quickly expanded to ready-to-wear pieces, which have now been joined with covetable collections of eyewear. All are overseen by Greek-Austrian designer Marios Schwab, who joined the brand as creative director in 2020. Kolotoura admits that Schwab had declined an earlier offer to join the company but her determination to redefine the image of Greek fashion paid off.“We were happy working women [before launching the business] but, at the same time, very passionate about our country,” says Kolotoura, as she takes Monocle on a tour around the facility, proudly admiring the team and the eye-catching frames they are working on. “Being able to support Greek crafts is the most satisfying part of the job.”zeusndione.comDione’s top modelsAn elegant rectangular-shaped design, inspired by the statement silhouettes worn by Aristotle Onassis. We are opting for the classic, midnight-blue frames, perfectly offsetting the black lenses. Odysseus: These sunglasses are as timeless as the stories of the mythological King of Ithaca they were named after. The thin square frames are suitable for any occasion and come in classic shades of dark burgundy and brown tortoiseshell. Refreshingly, they’re also logo free – aside from the label’s discreet emblem, a minuscule gold square on the temples. Leonidas: A unisex, aviator style given the Zeus + Dione treatment, with subtle engraving on the bridge that highlights the handwork the team of artisans at Nea Optiki applies on every single design. Arethusa: A style to make a statement in. These oversized, square frames are one of the top sellers in the label’s eyewear range, featuring acetate and metallic details on the frames – juxtaposed materials are one of creative director Marios Schwaab’s design signatures. Ino: Experimenting with bold, asymmetric shapes is a big part of the brand’s success formula when it comes to sunglasses. The Ino style is testament to that, featuring diagonal lines that add an element of surprise. Try the Yves Klein blue version – ideal for long days at the beach.

Captain’s Cut Leather: The Maltese brand reviving retail for Valletta residents

“People said that physical retail doesn’t make sense and I should only sell online,” says Keith-John Caruana of Captain’s Cut Leather, the Maltese leather brand and retailer that he founded in 2021. The self-taught craftsman has recently opened a shop in Valletta. “Leather is something that you need to smell and I make bespoke belts that people have to try on so we needed to be here.”It was a bold move for Caruana, who is keen to change the Maltese capital’s retail dynamic. The island-nation welcomes 2.9 million tourists a year, the majority of whom visit Valletta, with its shopping scene catering to the influx. “All of the retailers serving locals are leaving Valletta – it’s just restaurants and tourist shops now,” says Caruana. “But I’ve done the exact opposite.”A retired armed forces captain whose passion for leatherwork was ignited while stationed in Tuscany – where he watched Florence’s skilled traditional leather-craftsmen at work in the city’s narrow alleys – Caruana made his retail vision a reality with the help of his army friends. “Funnily enough, the original shop was run by a Maltese guy making boots for the British army and navy,” he says. “But it was really run down, so I got some of the army guys to come in and help me gut it. We stripped it back to reveal the original woodwork and tiles from 1921.”Keith-John CaruanaExterior of Captain’s Cut LeatherThe result is a beautiful workshop-cum-store, where Caruana puts the finishing touches on his products, takes measurements for bespoke commissions and runs workshops for apprentices. “I’ve trained 25 students from across Europe,” he says. “I want young people to understand the quality of good, full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather and get them addicted to things that matter – and I needed a shop to be able to do that.”Caruana is taking a similar approach with his customers, who include discerning tourists (the ones who are willing to venture off Republic Street, Valletta’s main drag) and Maltese celebrities, such as pop star Ira Losco. “I want to give visitors quality souvenirs, not the made-in-China stuff that you’ll find everywhere,” he says. “And it’s good for residents too. If you’ve forgotten your mum’s birthday, you can come here and have a wallet embossed with my laser, to make her feel special.”captainscutleather.comWant more stories like these in your inbox?Sign up to Monocle’s email newsletters to stay on top of news and opinion, plus the latest from the magazine, radio, film and shop.Your EmailSubscribe

Gear up for autumn in the best activewear for work and travel

GoldwinJapanJapan’s Goldwin has a reputation as one of the world’s finest skiwear manufacturers and is the Swedish national ski team’s brand of choice. Recently the label has been translating its technical know-how into urban wardrobe staples, from parkas to sporty tailoring. We have our eye on the label’s new beige parka for autumn, designed in collaboration with Italian ready-to-wear label OAMC. goldwin-global.comQ&ATodd SnyderCreative director, WoolrichUS label Woolrich has been writing a fresh chapter under new creative director Todd Snyder, the menswear maverick who also runs his eponymous label from New York. Snyder is working with Woolrich’s design teams in Milan, New York and Tokyo to create the label’s heritage and technical collections (Woolrich Black Label) and add a stronger luxury flavour to the range. Here he tells Monocle how performance wear is infiltrating urban wardrobes and discusses Woolrich’s potential to lead the sector.Why are you working with Woolrich?I was excited to work with a brand that has a heritage of almost 200 years and pretty much invented outdoors apparel. My idea is about fusing this heritage with modernity, with street, with luxury. I also saw an opportunity to use nature as a muse and design garments for all seasons. It’s about an active lifestyle, whether you’re in the countryside, the mountains or the city. Have people been engaging with technical clothing in new ways?It used to be all about athleisure but now outdoors wear is the new streetwear – people are wearing technical clothing to the office, maybe even to go to dinner. Recently, many people have embraced hiking, camping, fishing; activities that were left unexplored in the past. It’s a natural evolution and that’s what inspires me. We need to keep telling new stories. Tell us about your new collection.It was all about the Pacific Northwest and embodying the outdoors lifestyle. Woolrich is known for heavy parkas, so I’ve also been thinking about how to lighten things up. You’ll find a lot of track shorts, as well as lightweight cashmere shirts. My aim is to take classic silhouettes and rework them by using innovative fabrics or adding new details.woolrich.comMan-tleAustraliaAida Kim and Larz Harry, co-founders of Perth-based Man-tle, met in Tokyo while working for Japanese label Comme des Garçons. They still tap into their network of Japanese makers to produce daily staples such as slub denim hats, gabardine pants and durable canvas bags. Man-tle’s signature waterproof fabrics have been designed to get better with wear, due to an intricate hand-dyeing process. man-tle.comOn X BeamsSwitzerland & JapanTennis-inspired style has risen in popularity this year. It’s why Swiss performance brand On and Japanese label Beams have joined forces to offer their own take on the look. Informed by the green in the Wimbledon logo, the new capsule includes T-shirts, shorts, windbreakers and trainers that feature the Swiss and Japanese flags, perforated panels and thick white soles.on.com; beams.co.jpBelstaffUKBelstaff is marking 100 years of kitting out Brits with sturdy outdoors wear by looking back to its beginnings, when UK manufacturing was enjoying better days. Established in Stoke-on-Trent, the first Belstaff factory was awarded contracts by British armed forces and Antarctica research expeditions. During peacetime, the brand shifted focus to motor racing and designed its renowned Trialmaster jacket.Belstaff’s current offering of elegant parkas and quilted jackets reflects its outdoors roots. UK mills remain the primary source of waxed cotton fabric, while some of its knitwear is still produced locally. “I want to refocus on Britishness,” says chief brand officer Jodie Harrison. “There are pockets of expertise remaining here, including textile brands and Northampton shoemakers such as Grenson.”Belstaff CEO Fran Millar echoes this. “The biggest obstacle to our operation in the UK is a lack of factories, skills and talent,” she says. “There is a need for government investment; we all need to take responsibility.”belstaff.comMontblancGermanyFor weekends and short trips, a compact duffel bag is a far more elegant choice than a rolling suitcase. Montblanc offers a great variety of roomy weekender bags, including the 149 travel series. The totes, which are made from shiny calfskin leather, feature multiple pocket compartments for extra ease while packing, as well as an external lock and key closure for additional security. We recommend the burgundy hue, featuring a strikingsfumato(shaded) effect that has been manually applied to the leather.montblanc.comMykitaGermanyMykita captures the German flair for technical innovation by engineering fashionable frames, manufactured in-house, with high-quality optics. We have our eye on the brown Gia model that features a retro geometric frame and a patented spiral hinge – so your shades won’t snap in your suitcase, no matter how full it is.mykita.comComme SiUSAOpen any fashion stylist’s top drawer and you’ll likely find socks by Comme Si, the New York-based label by Jenni Lee, who’s introducing luxury into the everyday ritual of getting dressed. If you’re an active type, opt for the Cycling socks, crafted using a high-performance yarn.commesi.comBaracutaUKOuterwear specialist Baracuta is probably best known for its classic G9 Harrington jackets, created in the late 1930s, but this autumn the brand will debut its first dedicated womenswear line. The range features elegant trench coats and new iterations of the original G9 silhouette. Our pick is this vibrant checked coat, made from winter-ready wool. It’s a hardwearing yet elegant choice.baracuta.com

The French guide to summer style

Camille Romagnani wearssleeveless vest byBabaà, shirt byPatine, trousers byStudio Nicholson, ring byAgnès BMiles le Gras wearsshirt bySunnei, trousers byThe Frankie Shop, bag byRimowaZélikha Dinga wearsjumper byMiu Miu, shirt and skirt byRier, socks byFalke, shoes byMagasin Vivant!, glassesmodel’s ownTimothé Echelard wearsjacket byRier, shirt byCharvet, jeans, socks and shoes byGucciCésar Debargue wearsjacket byAndersen-Andersen, shirt byPaul Smith, trousers byMargaret Howell, socks and glassesmodel’s own, shoes byRierOscar Coop-Phane wearscoat, jumper, trousers and shoes byPrada, polo shirt byTricotGesa Hansen wearsshirt byPrada, trousers bySoeurPierre Touitou wearsshirt and jeans byBrooks Brothers, shoes byLa Botte Gardiane, cravatte and watchmodel’s ownHAIR & MAKE UP:Yoana TG

Five-star retail experiences from across the Mediterranean

Sunny travels offer you the chance to explore new, more carefree versions of yourself – and your wardrobe. You might pick up a punchier fragrance, swap your classic watch for a bright-yellow waterproof Swatch chronograph or experiment with new patterns. But when you return home, these purchases often feel out of place. So you store them away, together with your memories of the trip.If that scenario feels familiar, it’s probably because, until recently, most resort destinations had little to offer beyond souvenir shops stocked with everyday necessities for forgetful travellers and mass-produced beachwear. Having made enough bad shopping decisions, today’s holidaymakers are seeking more meaningful items that are unique to the place that they’re visiting but will also enrich their lives when they get back home. Montesol Experimental, in the heart of Ibiza’s Old TownSelect swimwearHoteliers have spotted the opportunity and have started to put more effort into satisfying guests’ appetite for purchases on the road. Retail is no longer just an afterthought. Where once, even in the most luxurious establishments, hotel boutiques were usually confined to badly lit corners and run by third-party companies, many have now evolved into thoughtfully designed retail spaces employing in-house creative teams to curate one-of-a-kind fashion selections, home decor and locally produced beauty products. These boutiques have become an important part of the hospitality experience, helping to lure people in, just as the right restaurant atmosphere or a signature drink on a bar menu might.Here, Monocle speaks to the creative directors, buyers and entrepreneurs who have taken up residence in sunny locations around the world, upgrading hotel boutiques in places such as the Greek isle of Paros, Italy’s Porto Ercole and the Cayman Islands.1.Bohemian exhibitsMontesol ExperimentalIbiza, Spain The Montesol Experimental hotel opened in the heart of Ibiza’s Old Town last year in a building that dates back to the early 20th century. “When we had the opportunity to get the oldest hotel in Ibiza, a Unesco World Heritage site, we were thrilled,” says Pierre-Charles Cros, co-founder of the Experimental Group, which also owns the island’s much-loved Experimental Beach club. The building was renovated by Parisian designer Dorothée Meilichzon, who used pastel colours to capture Ibiza’s sunny, bohemian spirit.Ever-changing curationPit stop at Café MontesolAll that glittersBespoke selection of accessories and craft piecesSpecial attention was paid to the boutique, which you’ll find by the hotel’s entrance. Cros saw a chance to use the space as a window into the Montesol experience, providing a taste of the best that Ibiza has to offer. The challenge was in creating the most interesting space possible within the compact area. “We wanted to showcase a selection of items that changes several times throughout the season and features a wide range of local talent,” says Cros, pointing to the rows of colourful kaftans lining the limewash walls, leather bags by Spanish brand Malababa, handwoven jackets by Gypsy Truck and gold jewellery crafted in nearby workshops. “If you make it too practical, it stops being about presenting a curation and doesn’t really inspire anybody,” says Cros. “Building a strong hotel brand extends to retail. It’s yet another dimension of the service that you offer guests to ensure that they remember you after they have gone home.”montesolexperimental.com2.Heart of the countryHôtel Crillon le BraveVaucluse, FranceSince Hôtel Crillon le Brave was established in 1989, its owners have considered shopping to be an important part of the customer experience. “We have always had a retail corner,” says general manager Dagmar Lombard. However, it was only when fashion and property entrepreneur Patrick Pariente acquired the premises 30 years later that it introduced a dedicated boutique space filled with Made in France keepsakes.Overlooking the countryside of Vaucluse, 35km northeast of Avignon, the boutique offers guests glimpses of the village’s surroundings before they even step out of the 17th-century hamlet. Its rails are lined with souvenirs such as silk scarves crafted in northern France by Inoui Editions, linen dresses from Luxe Provence made between Provence and Paris, and embroidered cotton blouses from Valentina Store produced in an atelier a few kilometres away in Malaucène. Hôtel Crillon le Brave’s boutiqueScarves from Inoui EditionsDagmar LombardVaucluse’s countrysideAs well as highlighting the region’s savoir-faire and skilledcouturières, the in-house Hôtel Crillon le Brave collection of wicker baskets, espadrilles and outerwear has proven to be an effective communications tool, spreading the word for the luxury hotel group, which has outposts in Saint-Tropez, Paris and Méribel. Every space takes inspiration from its surroundings; in Crillon le Brave, this translates to rustic shelving, Génoise-tiled floors and luscious pots of lavender. “As a family-owned hotel, we like to tell a story through the brands that we stock,” says Lombard.maisonspariente.com3.Caribbean collectionDolores at Palm HeightsCayman IslandsUrban fashion capitals no longer have exclusivity when it comes to brand collaborations. Today, you can find limited-edition items by the likes of Wales Bonner, Tekla and Bode even in the Caribbean. In the Cayman Islands, the founder and creative director of the Palm Heights hotel, Gabriella Khalil, regularly teams up with some of fashion’s most in-demand names for the hotel’s shop, Dolores. The boutique stocks exclusive items such as sarongs by Christopher John Rogers and striped pyjamas by Danish giant Tekla. New York-based Bode even adapted the hotel’s towels into smart terry jackets. “We have collaborated with Bode on our uniforms from the very beginning and, since then, we have also designed our first collection with them,” says Khalil. “Art, design and fashion has always been a part of our ethos.”Khalil also prioritises designers and brands from the Caribbean. “I launched Dolores with [crochet knitwear specialist] Diotima because the label’s clothes are made between Jamaica and New York, and now we’re collaborating with [Jamaican-US label] Theophilio,” she says. “We want to involve people who are making waves in fashion but we’re also in the Caribbean, so we need our items to reflect that.”The hotel’s line of merchandise, Palm Heights Athletics (PHA), consists of branded shorts, jumpers, socks and, soon, a range of pha sunglasses. “We want to provide items that people will use when they go home, not just on holiday,” says Khalil. “I was nervous about launching a hotel shop at first but I have surprised myself with how passionate I have become about Dolores.”palmheights.store4.Exclusive experiencesIl PellicanoPorto Ercole, ItalyTuscany’s Argentario coast is best known for its clear waters and rugged cliffs. For Marie-Louise Sciò, it’s also home. Her family has been running Il Pellicano here since 1979. The hotel was opened in the 1950s by a US socialite and a UK aviator as a haunt for their glamorous friends, and has always had a certain magic associated with it.Sciò, who took over as CEO and creative director in 2011, wanted her guests to be able to take some of that magic home with them. So she opened the Pellicano boutique and began curating collections that capture the hotel’s old-school elegance. “The boutique was born of a desire to extend the Pellicano’s charm into a shopping experience,” she tells Monocle. “I wanted a space where guests could find items that resonate with our philosophy.”Joy is central to this – hence the bright interiors, complete with pink cabinets and sunny accents. Sciò, who is her own best customer, mixes artisanal Italian brands such as Florence-based Loretta Caponi, best known for handcrafted bedding, with more established names including Métier, a London-based leather-goods label. In 2020 she launched Issimo Corner, a dedicated space for limited-edition products designed for Il Pellicano in collaboration with Scio. The exclusivity enhances the hotel’s five-star offering.issimoissimo.com5.House specialitiesLoja boutique at Casa MãeLagos, PortugalWhen former investment banker Veronique Polaert opened Loja boutique at Casa Mãe hotel in southern Portugal, she envisioned a retail destination in its own right and wasn’t discouraged by the lack of comparable shops in the region. Polaert was born in France and has lived in London and Los Angeles. Not being native to the area allowed her to take a risk in a city where change happens slowly. “Locals said that the concept wouldn’t work because Portugal’s hotel retail industry tends to focus on items considered useful for guests staying at the hotel, while our boutique was about decor,” says Polaert, who works with artisans across the country to design exclusive items for the boutique and promote Brand Portugal.Loja stocks limited-edition collaborations with furniture designers, textile ateliers and marble sculptors, including stoneware pieces by Braga-based Atulipa and colourful cotton beach towels by Futah, made in the northern Douro region. Polaert’s commitment to Made in Portugal also extends to the boutique’s interiors: she worked with Algarve-based firm Alberto Rocha on the custom tiles, while weaver Teresa Gameiro created jute rugs for the entrance. As for the staff’s smart uniforms, they were designed by Porto-based label La Paz, whose maritime-inspired garments also line the shop’s rails. “We curate a selection that reflects our sunny aesthetics,” says Polaert, who sees value in creating a sense of place and telling the stories of the region with her wares. “The trend of promoting local craftsmanship in hotels remains a niche concept but I like to think that Loja is proof that hotel retail can go beyond a mainstream approach.”casa-mae.com6.Retail romanticsAnthologist at CosmeParos, GreeceAndria Mitsakos has been working in the hospitality industry since the 1990s, helping to shape the communications strategies of a wide range of hotels, from Coquillade Provence and El Mangroove in Costa Rica to Phaea Blue Palace in Crete. “I remember the gift shops of the 1990s, which were stacked with things that you would never buy or necessities such as sun cream,” says Mitsakos. “We have moved through a number of different phases since then. For a while, hotel boutiques didn’t exist, then the big brands came in and started renting the retail space. Today we’re returning to authenticity.”What does authenticity look like when it comes to resort retail? “Items that have a sense of place, are exclusive to the area and tell a story of local craft,” says Mitsakos. She recently moved to her native Athens from the US and opened her by-appointment showroom, Anthologist. The shop is brimming with such products: think leather and brass belts for cinching caftans, gold and blue enamel jewellery paying homage to the Aegean sea, vintage textiles,komboloibracelets handmade using glass beads and customised stationery. This summer, Mitsakos will take Anthologist on the road with a boutique at Cosme hotel on Paros, hoping to meet travellers who share her passion for artisanal fashion. “People aren’t looking to buy the same items that they can purchase at home,” she says. “In summer resorts in particular, purchases are driven by emotion.”Andria MitsakosExterior of the CosmeA more intimate retail experienceCrocheted bag by AnthologistCosme is located in Naoussa, a village at the heart of the island. Mitsakos’s space is in the middle of the lobby. “It’s completely open, with no lock and key, and no opening hours,” she says. “You just pass through, rather than having to open a door and commit to spending time inside.” She points to a new trend in hotel retail that is all about creating more inviting shopping spaces. “It’s like being in someone’s closet. As you walk past, you might try on a blouse or pick up a beautiful bracelet. It’s a poetic approach that takes me back to the era of the grand hotel.” Because it’s in a summer outpost, the shop’s selection naturally caters for hot weather but Mitsakos also sprinkles in home decor pieces such as hand-blown vases or year-round fashion items such as kimonos to ensure that customers will still use these purchases long after they fly home with them.Even as resort retail evolves, established luxury names will always dominate a part of the market, says Mitsakos. “Travel is aspirational. People want to spend while they’re on holiday, so this is an easy way for the big brands to gain access to a new clientele.” Yet people are now seeking out intimate experiences, creating more space for concepts such as Anthologist to pop up. “Ours is a very romantic approach to retail,” says Mitsakos. “I picture someone coming in, buying stationery and a beautiful pen, writing a letter and tucking it into their lover’s bag before leaving for the airport.”anthologist.comBringing it all back homeFew things can bring back memories like a holiday purchase, however small – even a T-shirt or a cap picked up on your travels can revive moments spent in the sun if they feature, say, the logo of your favourite summer resort. “Hotel merchandise is so popular because it represents an experience,” says Francesco Sersale, head of business development and marketing at the family-run Le Sirenuse hotel on the Amalfi Coast. “It’s a marker of having been somewhere.” Given their limited availability, items such as a graphic T-shirt from Positano seafood restaurant Da Adolfo, featuring its widely recognised fish motif, or a tote bag from Les Roches Rouges hotel on the Côte d’Azur could be considered more exclusive than many designer accessories. Here are three must-have items from the Mediterranean.Float from Hotel du Cap, AntibesT-shirt from Da Adolfo, PositanoTrinket tray from Le Sirenuse

The man reinforcing Roger Vivier’s bejewelled legacy

Bejewelled buckles on shoes might once have brought to mind royal portraits from the 17th century but in today’s fashion industry they call forth one name only: Roger Vivier. The Parisian maison has perfected the twinkle of its shoes since it was founded by the French designer in 1937. Vivier pushed the boundaries of footwear, partnering with Christian Dior to develop his New Look silhouette and providing pumps for Catherine Deneuve in 1967 erotic psychodramaBelle de Jour. When the designer died in 1998, he left behind a maison and a legacy that still evoke glamour.In 2015 the house was bought by Italian holding company Tod’s Group for €415m. And Italian designer Gherardo Felloni was installed as creative director in 2018 – very successfully, as it turns out. Last year, overall revenue increased by 16.5 per cent to €286.7m.“I’ve always looked to Roger Vivier as a reference for my own career,” Felloni tells Monocle. “He was an inventor, a genius.” He is wearing one of his go-to outfits: a crisp shirt and a simple navy cardigan accentuated with an antique gold necklace, dripping with pearls. “Vivier designed for the contemporary women of the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s. That’s why one of the first shoes I designed for Roger Vivier was a trainer. Women today want to be comfortable. Sometimes I joke that Vivier, if he were alive today, would have worked on trainers. So I did it for him.”The CV1980: Born in Tuscany.2003: Begins his career in fashion as a shoe designer for Helmut Lang and Fendi in Italy.2009: Moves to Paris to work for Christian Dior and then Miu Miu as design director, while also studying opera.2018: Appointed creative director of Roger Vivier where, inspired by the maison’s cinematic heritage, he releases a short film featuring Catherine Deneuve.2023: Launches the Pièce Unique collection, a tribute to craft, archives and couture.2023: Wins the Footwear News Achievement Award for Shoe Designer of the Year.2024: Launches the Vivier Express series of short films starring Laura Dern and Eva Green.Felloni had previously worked in the accessories and footwear departments of labels including Fendi, Dior, Miu Miu and Prada. But, for him, being appointed the creative director of a house with a visionary founder is somewhat akin to entering into dialogue with someone beyond the grave. Shared passions such as gardening, jewellery and a playful approach to design facilitates that conversation. “I never knew Vivier but from the archive you can tell that he didn’t take himself too seriously,” says Felloni. “He wanted to make fashion contemporary and light. And I believe that fashion is a moment for creativity but also for the clients to have fun.”Growing up in Tuscany, Felloni considered a career in opera, cinema or architecture. But the calling came from closer to home: his father and uncle ran the family shoe factory, where he spent his childhood learning about the complexities of shoe construction. “Shoes aren’t like a bag or a dress: the form needs to support the foot so you can walk,” he says. “The technical part of my job is important to me.” This early exposure to manufacturing also instilled in him a reverence for craft from an early age. Now, at Roger Vivier, Felloni works with the house’s atelier to develop new designs but also to reiterate and update shoes that he finds in the archive.His aim is to communicate the savoir-faire and rarity of the maison to customers through opulent salon-style presentations of not only shoes but accessories including bags, belts and headbands. For the house’s campaigns, Felloni has tapped actors including Deneuve, Isabella Rossellini, Laura Dern and, most recently, Eva Green as brand ambassadors. “The women I’m obsessed with all have confidence in common,” he says. “When you’re confident, you can wear whatever you want. You don’t think about other people’s opinions. You’re free. That is what inspires me.”

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